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Post by Jan-Qui Coran on Sept 16, 2005 19:27:01 GMT -5
At Dragon Con I was able to get into a few of the MOTF forums (Matters of the Force-Star Wars). In the costuming forum they had a costumer who explained that from all Ep 1,2,3 that most of the Jedi have 1 thing in common for their outer tunics--at least it's that way with Mace & Obi-Wan & that is there is a seam at the waist under the obi, which makes the lower part of the tunic wider then the upper part. So no pattern anywhere will show that so we have to adjust the outer tunic. www.padawansguide.com/mace/mace_seam.jpg for photo proof she used.
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Sept 16, 2005 23:28:49 GMT -5
Ah, I've seen Mace's seam before. His tunic looks a bit gathered at the waist, too. But I don't know if it's truly necessary for all Jedi tunics to have that seam, especially since it's covered up by the obi. Unless you're doing a recreation of a specific character that has one.
I couldn't think of why they would want a seam there. It just looks like more work. Then I looked at Obi-Wan's outfit in ANH. He has no shoulder seams at all! The only way I could do a long tunic like that with the fabric I have is to cut the top part as one piece and add a little insert in front for the flap that goes under the top flap. So, I speculate that not having shoulder seams might be one reason, aside from fitting the costume to the actor, too.
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Post by Primrodo on Sept 16, 2005 23:47:56 GMT -5
The waist seam helps the skirt portion lay more correctly. I like that the waist seam thing made it all around Sometimes my reseach pays off.
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Schph Gochi
Message Board Member
"traveling through hyperspace ain't like dustin' crops boy"
Posts: 9,278
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Post by Schph Gochi on Sept 19, 2005 5:47:38 GMT -5
two of my tunics have a waist seam (thank you, Nova)...and for the female figure...they are especially helpful...but not totally necessary...
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Sept 20, 2005 0:11:17 GMT -5
The pattern I used for my last tunic came about by mixing 3 different patterns and modifying the end result to fit my measurements. I used the newest simplicity pattern (the one that came out last Halloween, I think), a tracing of a karate gi, and a tracing of a little circle skirt I bought in the juniors dept of Walmart. I used pieces of each, lengthened the arms, adjusted the waistline and the hem and got a pattern that looks something like this quick sketch: Not included in this sketch are the trim, tabbards and obi... this is just to show basic shape, not exact proportions.
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Sept 20, 2005 21:02:49 GMT -5
A few construction questions...
What order did you sew them together? This would be my guess: --- Top front and back together at shoulder and side seams --- Sew sleeves seams --- attach sleeves to top --- Sew bottom back skirt and front pieces together --- Attach bottom to top part
Did you have to gather the bottom skirt part at the seam to attach it to the top part?
When it's done, how does the side seam lay when you put it on? Does it go straight down the side or does it wrap around forward with the front panels of the tunic?
Do you put in the tuck at the the shoulders of the sleeves with this pattern?
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Post by Jan-Qui Coran on Sept 20, 2005 21:26:07 GMT -5
I don't about the attaching of the skirt to the top yet but from what we saw in AOTC the side seams probably are hiding in the tucks which looks like they face front. I can't be sure but I'll know shortly when my muslin version of the outer tunic is finished & I try it on the 1st time. If everything lays correctly then we do the good one. We've been assuming that the tucks are about 3 inches deep--not sure about that but my seamstress seems to think so. She knows more than I do about tucks so that they lay correctly. I'm also assuming, I hope, that the outer tunic's length is to mid thigh?
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Sept 21, 2005 0:31:05 GMT -5
A few construction questions...
What order did you sew them together? This would be my guess: --- Top front and back together at shoulder and side seams --- Sew sleeves seams --- attach sleeves to top --- Sew bottom back skirt and front pieces together --- Attach bottom to top part
Did you have to gather the bottom skirt part at the seam to attach it to the top part?
When it's done, how does the side seam lay when you put it on? Does it go straight down the side or does it wrap around forward with the front panels of the tunic?
Do you put in the tuck at the the shoulders of the sleeves with this pattern?
Almost... ---Sew top front left and right to top back at shoulder and side seams. ---Sew bottom back to top back at waist. No gathers... the diameter of the waist was cut to my measurements so that the side seams fall exactly at my sides, and the waist falls about an inch or so below my natural waistline (it gets pulled up when I add the obi and the belt, and that gives me room to move and spar, etc). ---Sew front bottom panels to top front. The side seams are sewn inside out and then the extra which you would normally cut off gets folded down and stitched again so it looks like you have 2 rows of stitching down the side from the waist down. Looks almost like self-binding I think, although I'm not totally sure that it is. ---Sew the tunic trim on. ---Sew the sleeves on and close the seam... the sleeves do get a serious tuck at the shoulder. I cut them so that the top of the shoulder seam tucks in all the way to the where the body of the tunic meets the trim (on me, about 6.5 inches). It adds extra padding to the shoulder and you get no variation in the thickness of the fabric. Also helps keep the tuck from pulling the fabric since it's a major stress point. I also cut the sleeves about 10 inches longer than where I want them to fall on my arm, to allow for tuck, hem and shoulder seam (and goof-ups). The tabbards are about 5.75 inches wide. The lining is attatched only at the shoulders and the waist... not at the bottoms of any of the hems... at least on mine. Not certain about Obi-Wan's. His look attatched. And the top half of the tunic is just doubled cotton gauze, not the silk lining that is in the sleeves and in the skirt part. I just did that to save some money... the silk was about 8 dollars a yard and really narrow. So the end result was this:
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Post by Farra Sti on Sept 21, 2005 4:02:45 GMT -5
Funnily enough my outer tunic had to have a piece sewn around it as when it was made the length of the collar part was mucked up so Mum cut off some of the bottom and then it was too short so we had to add to the collar and sew on the bottom piece we'd cut off. However the seem around the tunic is lower than the area of the obi so it would show when I don't have my robe on.
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Schph Gochi
Message Board Member
"traveling through hyperspace ain't like dustin' crops boy"
Posts: 9,278
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Post by Schph Gochi on Sept 21, 2005 6:58:49 GMT -5
Awesome Leda...and...new boots? They look great... must run to the boot forum and see if you have posted where you got them... they look incredible...
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Post by Primrodo on Sept 21, 2005 7:38:41 GMT -5
Wow! Looking great there Leda!
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Post by Olos Nay on Sept 21, 2005 9:49:51 GMT -5
funny is that I ended up having a seam under the obi on my new tunic. Not for having the lower part bigger or wider, not for recreating a specific caracter, simply to save on fabric...
I am using vintage flour pouches for this fabric. 100% cotton, very flexible, super comfortable.
but I might have to line it with silk in the near future...
all to mention, 2-part tunic can be usefull to use smaller parts of fabric (and save)...
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Sept 21, 2005 17:42:34 GMT -5
---Sew front bottom panels to top front. The side seams are sewn inside out and then the extra which you would normally cut off gets folded down and stitched again so it looks like you have 2 rows of stitching down the side from the waist down. Looks almost like self-binding I think, although I'm not totally sure that it is. That's a felled seam. It's the same kind you get on blue jeans. I use them a lot because I can't stand raw edges on the insides of my costumes and it's faster than other methods of taking care of them.
I just noticed that you have Obi-Wan style tabards, no tails in back. So the skirt piece in back shows more than with regular tabards. Looks good.
I'm working on a pattern for a full length ANH Obi-Wan type tunic. He doesn't have any visible seams at all around the sleeves or on the top. The only way I can think of doing it is with the top as one piece with the tabards covering up seams for the front flaps and the obi covering up the seam between the upper and lower parts. The skirt piece in back really seems to make the tunic hang right on yours, so I think I might use that for the longer pattern.
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Post by Jeffrek on Sept 22, 2005 7:07:31 GMT -5
Also Obi Wans lower tunic looks to be 1 peice too as there are no seams at the sides. Yet another thing the waist seam allows you to do. Guess its time for a new tunic
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Sept 22, 2005 17:19:41 GMT -5
A Felled seam? Thanks for that bit of terminology Ani! Yup, the seam is just like blue jeans! Also Obi Wans lower tunic looks to be 1 peice too as there are no seams at the sides. Yet another thing the waist seam allows you to do. Guess its time for a new tunic Really? You mean his RotS tunic? Looking..... Wow, I see no side seams.... hmmm. None......I know his AotC tunic has a seam because I copied it from the Obi-Wan stand up I have. It has the felled seam that Ani mentioned. I never even thought to look to see if there was one on the costume on display at CIII.
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