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Post by Ky-Wan Zann on Oct 15, 2010 18:46:06 GMT -5
Hi there folks
So in my endless work of making better tunics I seem to have run into a snag with the tuck issue on the outer tunic. I know Obi-Wan's is visab;e and some Jedi seem to have them hidden by tabbards and some don't seem to have one at all. I ma curious how wide do you make your tucks and how do you do it?. Mine seem to be causing trouble because even if a I allow more width on the shoulder the area from my neckline to the shoulder seam seems tighter.
Can someone show pics of what theirs looks like or how the determine where it goes, how wide, etc. Is it the sleeves tucked up or the shoulder itself?.
Thanks
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Post by Nova Darklighter on Oct 19, 2010 0:21:27 GMT -5
Rats, typed a long involved desciption just now and it got lost in the posting. will try again tomorrow, as the net is being wonky tonight.
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Post by Nova Darklighter on Oct 19, 2010 13:41:33 GMT -5
Shorter post. I tuck the shoulder seam to the inner side of the shoulder by hand from about 6inches from either side of the front and back of the top of the shoulder, the sleeve should be free, or you'll just be doing a new sleeve seam. Usually 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep in the tuck fold, depends on what looks good and personal pfreference.
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Oct 20, 2010 21:59:44 GMT -5
I modified the pattern to make the armhole larger. It's wider from shoulder to armpit seam. This way it won't get too small when I do the huge tuck. I like to make my tuck go all the way to the neck seam... it doubles as shoulder padding too. I stitch the sleeve where shoulder meets collar and sew it along the seam both ways a couple of inches.
hope that description makes sense hehe
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Post by Larwi B'nu on Nov 14, 2010 11:04:11 GMT -5
I really need help with my tunic, so I really appreciate the helpful hints!
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Post by Nova Darklighter on Nov 15, 2010 23:48:06 GMT -5
We're glad you find the tips helpful.
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Nov 18, 2010 23:03:24 GMT -5
One thing about the shoulder tuck is that if you plan on having them, make the BODY of the tunic wider over the shoulders. If you just use the sleeves to make the tuck then the tunic will feel tight in the sleeves.
You can use the sleeves a little bit to make the tucks, but most of them should come from the body of the tunic. I just make a pleat over the shoulders (where the tabbards will cover up the seam) and the tuck lays flat out over the end of the shoulder. You only need a very short line of stiching to hold the tuck in place. If you make it too long it will make the tunic fit strangely.
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Post by Olos Nay on Dec 2, 2010 23:34:58 GMT -5
I think the tuck was made as an on-set last minute adjustment.
In any case, trial and error makes confortable and good looking tucks...
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Post by Ky-Wan Zann on Dec 3, 2010 22:23:04 GMT -5
Hey there I got it all sorted folks thanks
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Post by Nova Darklighter on Dec 4, 2010 11:32:42 GMT -5
Glad to hear it's sorted, post a photo when you can.
Olos, I think like you do, it always made me think on-set fix, but it works well on Ewan.
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Post by Ky-Wan Zann on Jan 24, 2011 2:16:07 GMT -5
Yeah no tuck problems. Now it;s trying to get the outer tunic to cross lower without cutting a sharper angle on it cause then my chest and shoulders don't have enough loose fabric. At the same time if I keep the cut the way it is and cross the outer tunic lower then the sides of my tunic at the 'apron' part of it if you will flare out too much. SIGH I'm about ready to give up traditional jedi robes all together. My budget for trial sets and the fabric for real ones is starting to reallly eat my buget but I am wary of looking at e-bay for them as they should be done a certain way as many of you know. A lot of online sellers get things wrong even with measurements.
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Feb 9, 2011 20:05:46 GMT -5
It sounds like you might not have enough fabric on the front flaps. Can you add any at the bottom sides?
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Post by Ky-Wan Zann on Feb 12, 2011 1:47:19 GMT -5
I don't quite follow. I use a standard parrtn and my tunic band (collar) is 1.5 inches. Now if I put it where it hugs my neck where I like it has to close higher to be even the whole way round the bottom. Lowering it to cross lower on my chest and show more of my inner tunic makes it flare out at the sides because I'm basically letting all the fabric down there fan out if you will. Its really killing me. I am using silk noil or raw silk for the inner and outer. I'm about at my wicks end with these things. I habe the length I like, sash, tabards, colors....but the getting it to cross in the right spt and still stay even on the bottom....darkside's coming
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