|
|
Post by Stey Fann Jull on Mar 5, 2007 10:07:54 GMT -5
this is my first luxeon lightsaber. You can see the guts and the blade will be green but the only problem i have to fix and i dont know why it does that, when it off the battery become very hot. I will have to show to Olos Nay, Im his apprentice in electronic.   And i dont know if i sould put a grip or leave it simple |
|
|
|
Post by Koda Vonnor on Mar 5, 2007 11:51:45 GMT -5
That's most likely a problem in your switch. How many solder pins are on the back of the switch and how do you have them wired up? Is it a push-on, push-off type? Normally you only hook red wires to the switch. The black wire should go all the way from the battery to the LED.
~ Koda
|
|
|
|
Post by Stey Fann Jull on Mar 5, 2007 12:18:17 GMT -5
yes its a push on, push off switch, I wired it red/black to both switch solder pins and same from the LED. There is 2 solder pins. Its the first time i work with electronics
|
|
|
|
Post by Olos Nay on Mar 5, 2007 15:33:39 GMT -5
if you have free time this week-end I'll give a look at it. I think the Off position shorts the battery. It can't be all that hard to fix, we'll just need to figure out what happens.
|
|
|
|
Post by Stey Fann Jull on Mar 6, 2007 8:58:25 GMT -5
great,
|
|
|
|
Post by Stey Fann Jull on Mar 6, 2007 8:59:19 GMT -5
because everything work just fine excet that little problem
|
|
|
|
Post by Jeffrek on Mar 6, 2007 10:07:17 GMT -5
I can tell the problem just from your wiring description.
Power flows from your battery to the led and then back to the battery again making a complete circuit and lighting the led.
With the way you have it wired thats how its working with the switch in the off position. When you switch to the on position the power flows from your battery until it gets to the switch. Electricity always follows the easiest path so no is flows through the switch and back to the battery bypassing the led entirely (as the led has a much higher resistance than a switch).
In effect your shorting the battery contacts together whenever the switch is turned on.
Koda is quite correct about how it should be wired. You should wire the positive from the battery to one contact on the switch, the led positive should then be wired to the other switch contact.
The negative from the led should then be connected to a suitable resistor and that resistor then connected to the battery neagative. Like one big chain. Now when the switch is OFF the circuit will be broken, the battery will stay perfectly cool and the led will be off.
The other point I will make purely from your posted picture of the led actually working is that you may have damaged it. From the pic you have a 9v battery connected directly to the led. As even a 5w led requires only around 6v it can be damaged by 9v. If you are using a 1w or 3w then the chances are you have permanently reduced its output capability.
If it was working properly the amount of light it would put out would appear to be much greater than shown in the picture.
|
|
|
|
Post by Olos Nay on Mar 6, 2007 12:11:38 GMT -5
Jeffrek, I'm not certain a 9V battery can supply that much current without the voltage output being significantly reduced. Particularly that he's using a noname brand (I think its an EnerStar) which isn't ment for high current usages.
I'm more worried about the heatsink being used.
Nevertheless, I plan on going on-site this sunday and give a look at the switch and the wiring, plus monitor the current & voltage being sent to the led. I have a few 5W resistors available if need be, and some AA battery holders that could be pretty useful.
Stey Fann: do you have any optics piece in that setup on the picture, or just plain and simply the led?
|
|
|
|
Post by Jeffrek on Mar 6, 2007 18:38:25 GMT -5
If it was new it could potentially. Even cheap batteries can supply current, they just dont do it for long. I hope not however as it would be an expensive mistake.
|
|
|
|
Post by Stey Fann Jull on Mar 7, 2007 13:30:58 GMT -5
optic of 10deg
|
|
2saberjedi
Message Board Member
in Darkness we are the lite
Posts: 161
|
Post by 2saberjedi on Mar 27, 2007 7:15:15 GMT -5
(bow)
ya go with a small grip... but idk maybe you should leave it as is its pretty cool ur farther then me so good on ya
May The Force Be With You
|
|
|
|
Post by Olos Nay on Apr 2, 2007 22:03:57 GMT -5
Went to his place during the week-end, turns out the switch wasn't wired on properly. He discovered it by himself beforehand and fixed it. It was having the batteries to heat when "off" as it was shorting it. The usage of the 9V battery isn't good - the 9V battery can't supply ennough current to power the luxeon (at least the noname ones). I measured with my mmeter... While the battery is 9V when not in use, it droped instantly to about 3V once turned on. It drawed about 200 miliamps at that point. (about 0.6W, we're far from the 3W required by the led - That's why he din't have a high light output.) However, the LED isn't sinked properly, so damage might still have came out of that... I still like how he actually is trying things out to understand how it works... most propmakers don't experiment with things... but it is part of the learning experience. Plus the sabers are cool  |
|
|
|
Post by Hasid Lafre on Apr 3, 2007 5:13:26 GMT -5
Have you got it working properly? was the led damaged at all?
|
|
|
|
Post by Olos Nay on Apr 3, 2007 10:23:30 GMT -5
Its not as bright as I was expecting, but it does light a blade pretty good when its dark ennough. Problem is, we tried it mainly in bright daylight.
I think the led might not be working at 100% efficiency, but I have no other green 3W to compare. His white 3W with filters works better with the exact same conditions. My cyan 3W works better, but has a killer heat sink.
|
|
|
|
Post by Hasid Lafre on Apr 4, 2007 6:36:08 GMT -5
humm intresting.
|
|
