Post by zhidon on Jun 8, 2004 14:53:57 GMT -5
Yes, boys and girls, I have finally written it. I know some of you have been waiting a long time for this. Now you people can stop asking me about it.
I'm sorry I don't have anyway to easily document the process with a digital camera, as I don't have one.
I have tried to make the instructions as detailed as I could think to write them.
I invite comments, critiques or questions, after you have read these instructions.
So now, without further ado, here it is:
Here's a Basic Parts List to make blades the way I do:
40" piece of 3/4" OD, 5/8" ID polycarbonate tubing (I get mine from usplastic.com)
39" piece of 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID rigid polyethylene tubing for diffuser (mcmaster.com)
2" piece & 1/2" piece of 5/8" OD, 1/2" ID polypropylene tubing for top and bottom "bushings" (mcmaster.com)
1/4" male mono audio connector (Radioshack)
1/4" 10x32 set screw to hold above connector in bottom of tubing.(mcmaster.com)
8-10' of electroluminescent wire, depending on what kind of inverter being used (I use coolneon.com or coolight.com for this, they have the high brightness wire)
2" piece of 22 guage stereo wire, to wire the EL wire to the connector(I get mine from coolneon.com)
1" piece of heat-shrink tubing to insulate your solder connection between EL wire and stereo wire (RadioShack)
1/2" 6x32 clear polycarbonate screw to hold end bushing in (this is a recent addition, because the end bushings have come out of some of my blades when they are dueled with. However, these are rather expensive, as screws go. I think I payed about $10 for 50 screws.)
hot glue, or silicone for end of blade
super glue to glue in top and bottom bushings
Note: I don't really like RadioShack all that much. I have a much better electronics store locally that I use that has a better selection and cheaper prices, but you can't order from them online, so I know you should be able to find what you need at RadioShack)
That's just for the blade.
To power it, you need to put inside your hilt:
9V A/C inverter with 9V battery clip (same places that sell the EL wire)
1/4" female mono audio plug (Radioshack)
switch of your choice
extra wire to put switch into circuit
more pieces of heat-shrink tubing to insulate solder connections
9V battery
Then when you get all that stuff, you get to figure out how to put it all together.
Though I can help there, too, of course.
When I started making my own blades, I knew I'd be making several, so I didn't mind buying a whole box of set screws, or polycarbonate screws. Or buying special tools, like an automatic wire stripper, and a drill and tap set to thread my screw holes.
Disclaimer: This is how I make my blades, if you do not follow these instructions, I cannot guarantee how well your blades will come out, nor how sturdy they will for dueling purposes. I have improved my construction methods as they have been "battle tested".
Construction
Preparing the tubes:
Cut the polycarbonate tubing to 40" (the "industry standard") or whatever you've decided on for the length of your blade. You can use a Dremel, or a pipe cutter. If you use a Dremel, put a piece of tape around the tube, this will make a cutting line and protect your tube from scratches if you slip when you're cutting. Lightly sand the inside and outside edges of both ends with some fine sand paper.
Next, cut a 2" piece of 5/8" tubing for the bottom "bushing". Using sand paper, bevel the inside and outside of edge of the end that will be inserted into the outer polycarbonate tube. Push it halfway up the bottom end of the outer tube, apply some super glue and insert it flush with the inside of the outer tube. This will hold your male connector and bottom end of the diffuser tubing. You may need to use a hammer to seat the bushing all the way in, if it's a tight fit. I would use a rubber, or plastic mallet, so that you don't mushroom the end of the bushing too much. I use a plastic one that I have for my leatherworking.
Cut a 39" piece of diffuser tubing and bevel the inner and outer edges of one end. Straighten it as best you can, as it will have a curve to it, since it comes off of a roll (as it sits in the tube, it will get straighter, over time).
Take your male connector and unscrew & remove the housing, if it has a clear or black insulative sleeve inside it, don’t lose it. Determine where to place the hole in the housing for the set screw, I usually put mine about an inch up from the "shoulder" at the plug end of the connector, and mark it. I don't have a vice, so I use a pair of vice grip pliers to hold the marked housing on my work space. Use a center punch, or just a nail to make a dent that the drill bit will rest in, so it won't slip off the rounded surface. Start with a 1/8" pilot hole, then choose a size of bit just larger than the set screw. Clean out the metal shavings from the inside of the housing and put it back on the connector, temporarily.
I'm sorry I don't have anyway to easily document the process with a digital camera, as I don't have one.
I have tried to make the instructions as detailed as I could think to write them.
I invite comments, critiques or questions, after you have read these instructions.
So now, without further ado, here it is:
Here's a Basic Parts List to make blades the way I do:
40" piece of 3/4" OD, 5/8" ID polycarbonate tubing (I get mine from usplastic.com)
39" piece of 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID rigid polyethylene tubing for diffuser (mcmaster.com)
2" piece & 1/2" piece of 5/8" OD, 1/2" ID polypropylene tubing for top and bottom "bushings" (mcmaster.com)
1/4" male mono audio connector (Radioshack)
1/4" 10x32 set screw to hold above connector in bottom of tubing.(mcmaster.com)
8-10' of electroluminescent wire, depending on what kind of inverter being used (I use coolneon.com or coolight.com for this, they have the high brightness wire)
2" piece of 22 guage stereo wire, to wire the EL wire to the connector(I get mine from coolneon.com)
1" piece of heat-shrink tubing to insulate your solder connection between EL wire and stereo wire (RadioShack)
1/2" 6x32 clear polycarbonate screw to hold end bushing in (this is a recent addition, because the end bushings have come out of some of my blades when they are dueled with. However, these are rather expensive, as screws go. I think I payed about $10 for 50 screws.)
hot glue, or silicone for end of blade
super glue to glue in top and bottom bushings
Note: I don't really like RadioShack all that much. I have a much better electronics store locally that I use that has a better selection and cheaper prices, but you can't order from them online, so I know you should be able to find what you need at RadioShack)
That's just for the blade.
To power it, you need to put inside your hilt:
9V A/C inverter with 9V battery clip (same places that sell the EL wire)
1/4" female mono audio plug (Radioshack)
switch of your choice
extra wire to put switch into circuit
more pieces of heat-shrink tubing to insulate solder connections
9V battery
Then when you get all that stuff, you get to figure out how to put it all together.
Though I can help there, too, of course.
When I started making my own blades, I knew I'd be making several, so I didn't mind buying a whole box of set screws, or polycarbonate screws. Or buying special tools, like an automatic wire stripper, and a drill and tap set to thread my screw holes.
Disclaimer: This is how I make my blades, if you do not follow these instructions, I cannot guarantee how well your blades will come out, nor how sturdy they will for dueling purposes. I have improved my construction methods as they have been "battle tested".
Construction
Preparing the tubes:
Cut the polycarbonate tubing to 40" (the "industry standard") or whatever you've decided on for the length of your blade. You can use a Dremel, or a pipe cutter. If you use a Dremel, put a piece of tape around the tube, this will make a cutting line and protect your tube from scratches if you slip when you're cutting. Lightly sand the inside and outside edges of both ends with some fine sand paper.
Next, cut a 2" piece of 5/8" tubing for the bottom "bushing". Using sand paper, bevel the inside and outside of edge of the end that will be inserted into the outer polycarbonate tube. Push it halfway up the bottom end of the outer tube, apply some super glue and insert it flush with the inside of the outer tube. This will hold your male connector and bottom end of the diffuser tubing. You may need to use a hammer to seat the bushing all the way in, if it's a tight fit. I would use a rubber, or plastic mallet, so that you don't mushroom the end of the bushing too much. I use a plastic one that I have for my leatherworking.
Cut a 39" piece of diffuser tubing and bevel the inner and outer edges of one end. Straighten it as best you can, as it will have a curve to it, since it comes off of a roll (as it sits in the tube, it will get straighter, over time).
Take your male connector and unscrew & remove the housing, if it has a clear or black insulative sleeve inside it, don’t lose it. Determine where to place the hole in the housing for the set screw, I usually put mine about an inch up from the "shoulder" at the plug end of the connector, and mark it. I don't have a vice, so I use a pair of vice grip pliers to hold the marked housing on my work space. Use a center punch, or just a nail to make a dent that the drill bit will rest in, so it won't slip off the rounded surface. Start with a 1/8" pilot hole, then choose a size of bit just larger than the set screw. Clean out the metal shavings from the inside of the housing and put it back on the connector, temporarily.