I'm really trying

[damanos]

Due to finding a Master Replicas Darth Vader lightsaber replica (did not buy it), I decided to begin work again on my second lightsaber.

They first was a combination of aluminum tubing, plastic tubing, a couple of knurled nuts, and used caulking as a filler (no electronics).

The second one I want better. A patient gave me a 5 D-cell MagLite (switch clicks, but doesn't actually work). I just need some thoughts on a filling. The original caulking gave it weight. I like a heavy feel to it. Thought of slicing a few inches off the MagLite, putting the belt clip on, a few other cosmetic pieces, and then filling it to give it a lot more weight. I need something that goes in as a liquid and set without heat.

Any thoughts would be helpful.

Merrill T. Slaven, D.C.
[e-mail]

[Saberbelt]

I would say just use some spent batteries in there but you will need to monitor it so they don't leak acid all over

You could try a resin but you have to make sure every little seam is "water tight" otherwise you could have a huge dissaster.

The only other thought I have would be either a solid wood dowel or a solid metal dowel - either one would give you the weight you are looking for, I think.

Dave

[Tobbok Nassias]

Hey, don't worry, this is easy. I use liquid acrylic, often called crystal water if you get it at craft store in the silk floral section. The one I use is put out by Silk Shop* and one box costs about $5 and will fill the entire tube. You can get it at a craft store, Wal-mart, or most any store that has a craft section. It comes in two parts, you mix them, pour the solution, and let it set up for about 48 hrs (the box says 24, but because of surface area and the needed hardness, it will be at least 48 before you can use it). Also, if you find a 3/4 piece of pipe to go inside, the acrylic will secure it nicely so that you can put in an acrylic blade for fighting.

[JediKai]

Tobbok: this is a novel idea. How would you create the opening, as it were, for the acrylic blade. Fill the tube with the liquid acrylic and then put something in to create the negative space while it sets up?

[Tobbok Nassias]

Ah, well there are several ways, the one you mentioned I have tried, and it does work. But the easiest way is to use two tubes, one as the hilt exterior (drain pipe or similar pipe), and one as a receptical inside the hilt (3/4 inch copper tubing for gas lines or water lines works best). This requires two seprate pours. First pur acrylic 1/3-1/2 the way up the larger tube and let it set; then place the copper inner tube inside (it works best to seal end of the inner tube that sitts on the first poured acrylic with hot glue or something like that first, to prevent back filling), then fill the space between the two tubes with acrylic and let set. *Note, the rubber like acrylic sets up hard and acts a great recepticle for cosmetic parts such as LEDs and knobs.

[jason1976]

Tobbok Nassias, How does this crystal water compare to resin? See, I need resin for doing some parts of my costume (pouches, buckles, etc.), and I'm having trouble finding it. I have found some place locally that sell resin, but it's in very, very small amounts, and at an excessive price. And since I can't order resin of the net (no credit card) I'm looking for an alternative.

Jason

[Tobbok Nassias]

Well, the liquid water is acrylic, like resin; however, it isn't brittle when it sets. Once set, it will be of a hardened rubber consistancey, like bendy figures (if you have ever had one of the little posable easter bunnies...like that, but it will pull back to shape when bent). You cannot add dies to it, you must wait until it is set to paint it. I hope this helps.