Post by zhidon on May 26, 2004 14:53:49 GMT -5
am starting this thread for those of us who have built EL lightsabers hilts and want to help others to do so....
Last weekend, my partner and bladesmith Loreen Shadowchaser made a prototype EL lightsaber hilt in about 5 hours. The following inlcludes basic directions and parts;
parts needed:
an EL kit from LIGHTECH including adapter. [we didnt need a blade, because lori makes them. Buy the optional pushbutton switch, the one that comes with kit is not as good.
a chrome plated sink pipe [standard or industrial] friom hardware store
2 button top, hex machine screws from hardware store [take the ones from the adapter in the kit. You need ones that are a bit longer.
a chrome end cap or hole plug from hardware store
1 foot of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe from hardware store
1 rubber O ring 1 3/8 inch from hardware store
1 round top chrome 1/2 inch nut and bolt from hardward store
Assembly instructions;
Cut chrome sink pipe at a 45 degree angle on the side that does not have the lip. use hacksaw or dremel. Sand rough end of pipe.
Cut the pipe at the other end so the entire lenght is about 13 inches. Use hacksaw, dremel or pipe cutter. Sand the rough end.
Cut about 6 inches off the PVC pipe. cut a 1/2 inch slot in it. use hacksaw, dremel or pipe cutter.
Drill a new hole in the adapter to move the female plug end about 1 1/2 inches inside it.
Solder wires to female plug, then from plug to switch and inverter, then to battery clip.
Insert the cut PVC pipe into the sink pipe until it is 1/2 inch from the lower lip of the angle cut. It will fit very tightly.
Measure, mark and drill 4 holes in the sink pipe. One for the thumbscrew and two for the machine screws that go into the adapter. Drill the hole for the switch just behind the ones for the adapter.
Mount the female plug into the adapter using the new hole for the machine screw.
Lower all electonics into the sink pipe until the battery clip comes out the bottom.
Using a flat piece of wood or other instrument, wrap tape around it reversed and use it to hold the switch and put it into the hole. Screw down the bezel for the switch to hold it in place.
Insert the adapter into the hilt. We left about 1 inch out from the bottom lip for effect.
Align holes and insert thumbscrew. Insert and tighen down the machine screws.
Push the O ring over the adapter end and jam it in with a screwdriver. This covers the white PVC inner pipe.
Drill a hole in the end cap and attach the round top screw.
Attach battery to clip.
Bend the prongs on the end cap slightly out for a better fit and then push the cap onto the bottom of the saber.
Plug blade into adapter and tighten thumbscrew.
Put on any accents you want and grips.
THAT'S IT....youre ready to go!
We tested the saber afterwards for 30 mintues of shinai practice. No problems were found.
5 hours...thats all it took!
Last weekend, my partner and bladesmith Loreen Shadowchaser made a prototype EL lightsaber hilt in about 5 hours. The following inlcludes basic directions and parts;
parts needed:
an EL kit from LIGHTECH including adapter. [we didnt need a blade, because lori makes them. Buy the optional pushbutton switch, the one that comes with kit is not as good.
a chrome plated sink pipe [standard or industrial] friom hardware store
2 button top, hex machine screws from hardware store [take the ones from the adapter in the kit. You need ones that are a bit longer.
a chrome end cap or hole plug from hardware store
1 foot of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe from hardware store
1 rubber O ring 1 3/8 inch from hardware store
1 round top chrome 1/2 inch nut and bolt from hardward store
Assembly instructions;
Cut chrome sink pipe at a 45 degree angle on the side that does not have the lip. use hacksaw or dremel. Sand rough end of pipe.
Cut the pipe at the other end so the entire lenght is about 13 inches. Use hacksaw, dremel or pipe cutter. Sand the rough end.
Cut about 6 inches off the PVC pipe. cut a 1/2 inch slot in it. use hacksaw, dremel or pipe cutter.
Drill a new hole in the adapter to move the female plug end about 1 1/2 inches inside it.
Solder wires to female plug, then from plug to switch and inverter, then to battery clip.
Insert the cut PVC pipe into the sink pipe until it is 1/2 inch from the lower lip of the angle cut. It will fit very tightly.
Measure, mark and drill 4 holes in the sink pipe. One for the thumbscrew and two for the machine screws that go into the adapter. Drill the hole for the switch just behind the ones for the adapter.
Mount the female plug into the adapter using the new hole for the machine screw.
Lower all electonics into the sink pipe until the battery clip comes out the bottom.
Using a flat piece of wood or other instrument, wrap tape around it reversed and use it to hold the switch and put it into the hole. Screw down the bezel for the switch to hold it in place.
Insert the adapter into the hilt. We left about 1 inch out from the bottom lip for effect.
Align holes and insert thumbscrew. Insert and tighen down the machine screws.
Push the O ring over the adapter end and jam it in with a screwdriver. This covers the white PVC inner pipe.
Drill a hole in the end cap and attach the round top screw.
Attach battery to clip.
Bend the prongs on the end cap slightly out for a better fit and then push the cap onto the bottom of the saber.
Plug blade into adapter and tighten thumbscrew.
Put on any accents you want and grips.
THAT'S IT....youre ready to go!
We tested the saber afterwards for 30 mintues of shinai practice. No problems were found.
5 hours...thats all it took!
