Drilled sabers or epoxyed?

[Jedimom/Cor-Al Gelkar]

I am starting to make my own saber and was wondering how many of you have constructed your sabers by epoxying (gluing) the parts together or if you drilled holes for the pieces. And if you did drill, how did you get the pieces to stay on, did you put them on screws? I have seen websites touting both methods and was wondering which was better. Thanks

[LonMark]

I don't know, I am using a combination of both to put my sabers together.

[Johann Shinobi]

I used both. you almost have to. i drilled the wholes and then in some area used a thread tap (makes the thread of a screw hole) that i bought at home depot.
but epoxy is better in other areas of construction, where screws won't work well.

[Toba Qaf]

I used screws and adhesives. The screws are only used to hold the belt mount on, while everthing else is done with adhesives.

[Jen-Ru Balon]

I used aluminum pop rivets. I also used two thumbscrews that go all the way through and can be used to hold the blade in. There is an acorn nut on the end of one and a knuled nut(belt clip) on the other one. They are two inches from each end.

[Aldoshae]

I'm finding it all depends on your intentions of the saber.

If you plan on throwing a blade in there (EL or otherwise) then much of what you'll want to do is epoxy.

I'm in the midst of a hybrid version of the Obi-Wan hardware saber that is shown on Big Yellow Box. The way that is constructed it gives you a beeeyooteefull clean tube inside for darn near anything you want.

In order to maintain that cleanliness though, it's epoxy all the way. Loc-Tite is what I use, and it's amazing. Tat stuff ain't budging no how.

If your saber is purely a belt decoration for your costume, and you don't plan on making it functional, save yourself the headache of possibly losing parts after an accidental drop, and screw em on in there.

[Schph Gochi]

I have also used both screws and epoxy.

We have an epoxy that we use in the shop here (auto) that is unbelievable stuff...it is dark colored....so you have to be careful with the application. Most of the parts on mine have been screwed on...but looking for good fasteners that look interesting and can be used is difficult...my screws are pretty pedestrian...wish I had done better.

My saber is done...yet not done...I still want to add something to it...it is too plain...I just don't know what...I guess when I see it...I will know it....and whatever "it" turns out to be...I will epoxy it on.

[Jeffrek]

Yeah a combination is the way to go. Even on my new machined sabre some parts are fixed with screws but a few others like the emmitter is held together with some aircraft epoxy (used for joining sheet aluminium on aircraft) so its really good (and verrry expensive) stuff ;D

[ALDAN JII]

the nine hilts i have made, only one is completely friction fit, the rest uses mostly a wooddooking glue that uses water for it to work. on one peice apply the glue the other peice, dip in water, and a couple hours of set up and a resin type foam has formed, wait til that dried completely, and trimmed away,sanded then panted......... my twohanded saber hilt, i use pvc,copper,1/4 inch self tapping screws................this one impliments a door bell button for the igniter button, the emmiter is a model monster truck wheel,,,,,,,,,the wrinkled chrome effect is truly wrinkled chromdecal staicker from local hobby shop..............my gold and black saber hilt, is completely black excpet for the real gold layment, found that at wal-mart crafts.............just apply the adhesives, cut desired length and width of gold over layment, pres on with fingers, and burnished the rest in with the paint brush handle tip..............and then rmoved the gold layment's backing and waaaaaaaalaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, agolden saber that looks ions old..................................you guys will see what i'm talking about at the assemblyof the assembly2004....................my hilts average in length 10 1/2 inches to close to 16 inches long..............then theirs my ewok saber, simular to master yoda's saber hilt, but truly my own design. total length is about 7-8 incheslong

but to answer the topic question i use both epoxy and self taping screws, plus the foaming wood working glue, it's called probond, elmer's glue makes it, small bottle lasts forever,,,,,,,,i think it was about 5.00 for the bottle
againadd the glue to one peice, then dip the other in waterand bam couple hours it has started to foam, that means it's working...................dont use to much glue or water, cause it will foam to much and over flow the peice, then a mess and a visit to the trash can....lol
probond is a polyurethane glue,bonds vertually everything, so far bonds the pvc quite well, and after it dries and sets up give the peice a some what perfect weight..................................some times i have used decorative tacks for furniture to accent my sabers...........actually the golden brass ones are the ones i use and prefer........

[Roize]

Greetings My Freind,

1. I did the machine part on almost 70 percent of my light sabers.
2. I used PVC pipes on the light saber grip and into the inner pipe to serve as housing for the detatchable blade which is made out of wood and aluminum steel.
3. I painted the grip ( Black ) with modelling color ( Flat Black ) made all adhesive with clear epoxy.
4. About the polishing part, I used very fine steel sand paper and have it done all handmade.
5. Remember that do not be in a hurry to finish the saber. It is the proccess of constructing it that makes it exiting.
5. I'll do a full instruction about it in the future. For now, I'm just a new member and I still dunno how to navigate through the whole site. I even dunno how to put or upload pictures in the forum. I hope fellow jedis can guide me.
6. You can see the light sabers and jedi com-link I've constructed here: community.webshots.com/user/roize1968
Maybe this would help.

May the force be with you.
Jedi Knight Roize.

[Noslen]

I made my first saber using epoxy on the whole thing.

My 2nd saber used both.

My 3rd sabers both used screws entirely. I used allen screws for the assembly... stainless where they showed up easily (to match the rest of the hilt). I also designed this to accept a blade. I have 2 emitter designs - one with a blade, and one without. I currently have a wood blade I can replace. I haven't really tried to hit the blade against anything, so I don't know how well it would hold up (the cheap dowel blade would break first). I do hope to upgrade to a poly blade or even rig it for an EL blade.

On my 4th, I was able to hide all the allen screws. I don't intend on setting this up for a blade, just display only.

It depends on what you want to work with and (in my case) what parts I came across easily. It turned out cheaper to tap and thread everything I needed.