nasram
Message Board Member
Posts: 4
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Post by nasram on Feb 26, 2007 2:55:22 GMT -5
My seamstress has finished the first draft of my outer tunic. Will need to ask her incredibly politely to do another one because the material was so incredibly wrong (let this be a lesson to not go for what people say is the best, but to look and choose a fabric you think looks the best)
One thing I did notice is that in the pattern I'm using for the outer tunic, the band around the neck is reinforced by some heavyweight. It seems from costume exhibition pics that the band is flat with no reinforcement at all. Would I be right in that assumption?
The pattern also uses the same heavyweight to reinforce the sash. Again, would this be a mistake?
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Post by Kryy Jacobi on Feb 26, 2007 18:22:30 GMT -5
Do you mean interfacing? I'm still working on my outer tunic, but my inner tunic called for interfacing on the neckband, and I tried it but decided not to use it. The tunic fabric was a gauze/crinkle cotton, and I didn't like the stiffness of the interfacing (even though it was lightweight) as compared to the fabric. Not a good "marriage". I wound up using a double thickness of the tunic fabric itself -- actually a four thickness, since the neckband folds over onto itself and is stitched down on the inside. The neckband is nice and soft and sort of "squishy" or quilt-like, much like some of the movie "looks". Do be sure that the grain of the fabric runs lengthwise, not crosswise. However, that makes it more stretchy, so you need to be careful that it doesn't stretch out of shape. (Of course it also depends on what type of fabric you're using. Some of the outer tunic fabrics have a lot more stiffness.) We have several experienced seamstresses (not me!) who are generous with their advice, so you're in the right place!  |
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Post by Koda Vonnor on Feb 26, 2007 19:18:11 GMT -5
...We have several experienced seamstresses ... ...    ;D |
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Feb 26, 2007 19:32:40 GMT -5
The tunics for the movie costumes do not look like they have reinforced collars. They lay pretty flat.
For my tunics, I just use a double/triple thickness of material with no interfacing.
I use a double thickness of material (with no reinforcement or interfacing) for the obi as well and make it long enough to wrap around twice (if the material isn't too thick and if I have enough). Notice that the obi fabric is cut on the fabric bias, diagonally across the grain of the fabric. This is a small detail; your costume is fine without it, but it is there in the movie costumes.
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JediKai
Message Board Member
TJA Savior
Posts: 5,560
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Post by JediKai on Feb 27, 2007 1:20:25 GMT -5
I agree with Ani. I do not use any interfacing in either the tunic bands nor the obi.
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Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Feb 27, 2007 19:59:54 GMT -5
I'd used double thickness for the raw silk and crinkled cotton tunics. But next ones, I think I'll use some interfacing to give the neck band weight so I can conserve fabric.
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nasram
Message Board Member
Posts: 4
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Post by nasram on Feb 28, 2007 5:25:09 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips, much appreciated I think I'll drop the interfacing. Just doesn't seem right to me. Feeling good today, because yesterday I found lovely little fabric shop which sold the raw silk that I've heard so much about. It looks a lot better than the "raw silk" I was sold by previous shopowners. It looks so good I think that Qui Gon may have stopped by that shop when he was thinking about what he should wear next  If I ever get bluetooth working with Linux, I'll post the pic of the material that I took with my phone. |
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Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Mar 1, 2007 16:24:07 GMT -5
Yep, all that matters is which tecniquice works for you and looks best for waht you need. That neckband IS a bit of a bear to install. I've finally decided to not have them run all the way down to the bottom of the over, but only to the waist For the under tunic, I'll try what the wardrobe guys did for Obi Wan's. A white pull-over shirt, and the sleeves and neck being coloured. maybe a snap on the collar to get it closed. Not a bad idea espciallly if the shirt portion is the Under Armour shirt made for Florida's summers.
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Post by mooglar (Malim Vincible) on Mar 2, 2007 13:53:59 GMT -5
Ani-Chay is correct about the obis being cut across the bias in Eps. II and III. But Obi-Wan's obi in Ep. I is actually cut with the bias. Just an interesting little note.
Personally, I only use interfacing on the outer tunic when I'm trying to do a super-crisp look, like Mace Windu's or Obi-Wan's in Episodes II and III. When I'm okay with being more rumpled, like Obi-Wan and Qui-Gon in Ep. I, then I don't use it.
I do use a very light rayon interfacing in the collars of my inner tunics, but only on the outside side of the collar, not the inside. When I don't use any interfacing at all, I find my collar tends to wilt during the day, especially if I sweat. It's not as bad with silk inner tunics as with cotton (I'm using only silk now). I don't layer the fabric itself as some have suggested because of heat concerns (that's also why I use rayon interfacing and not polyester).
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Post by Kryy Jacobi on Mar 7, 2007 20:04:46 GMT -5
...We have several experienced seamstresses ... ... ;D OK, Koda -- no offense to you, Malim, Ki-Vann, Primrodo, etal. I wasn't trying to be sexist... I was mainly thinking of Leda, Kai, Ani, Nova, and Mynn, since I've "talked" to them the most.... You've done a very NICE job on your costume. Please forgive me. (Bows) |
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Post by mooglar (Malim Vincible) on Mar 9, 2007 8:31:23 GMT -5
Is a male seamstress a "seamster?" :^)
Sounds like roughians from a Broadway musical. "Watch out for the seamsters!"
It also sounds like we should be dumping bodies in the river for Jimmy Hoffa... :^)
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Post by Primrodo on Mar 9, 2007 19:56:02 GMT -5
Tailor?
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Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Mar 9, 2007 20:53:39 GMT -5
<shrugs> I guess a male sewer would bea tailor. It's funny for centuraies it waas the males who did make the best suits.:-D
The best thing to do with a neck band is to do several practice bands from some scraps. Small mini bands on small scraps. Easier to fiddle with and such.
One without any interfacing but with fabric layers. Another with a very light weight interfacing.(thin). Another with a little heavier interfacing(medium weight). Another with a little thicker facing. Compare each side by side, handle, feel them. See which you like best for looks and go with that.. I use the interfacings that I can iron to the fabric.:-D Yeah I cheat. :-D
FOr the Obi belt. Well, I usually lay two layers of fabric down them fold in half longways. It usually has enough stiffness and pliability. I LOVE rawsilk.:-) I'm making obis with lighter weightfabric and do use a medium weight interfacing.. If it's a super lightweight fabric like a real thin silk lining type, use a medium interfacing ironed in between the farbic layers, fols and sew. iron.
A sort of heavy fabric, it never hurts to use a wee bit of interfacing. it's all presonal preferance. My raw silk obis wrinkle up like Obi Wan's merely from normal wear.
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Post by Nova Darklighter on Mar 11, 2007 14:12:41 GMT -5
Seamer is good for uni-sex. |
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Post by Koda Vonnor on Mar 11, 2007 21:23:22 GMT -5
OK, Koda -- no offense to you, Malim, Ki-Vann, Primrodo, etal. I wasn't trying to be sexist... I was mainly thinking of Leda, Kai, Ani, Nova, and Mynn, since I've "talked" to them the most.... You've done a very NICE job on your costume. Please forgive me. (Bows) Well... I WAS gonna try and hijack the thread, but I see y'all got it taken care of. ...hehehe... ;D ~ Koda |
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;D
