Outer Tunic

[Xana]

Does anyone know a pattern for an elipltical hem? I was thinking of doing this for my outer tunic. Kind of like Ki-Adi-Mundi's.

[Nova Darklighter]

Am I thinking rightly, that you mean the brown sleeveless vesty thing? Pretty full, and shorter in the front, curving to a longer back hem? I'll take a closer look at it on weds. night, 'cos I'm going to see AOTC then, I'll also lookout for a pattern on weds. afternoon, I have to go shop fabric for that guys dance costume, but at least he decided to go with the fabrics I reccomnded.

[Xana]

Yes, that's the one. But I was thinking of doing the sleeves too. Thanks!!!;D

[Nova Darklighter]

Figure the length that you want in center- front, and the length you want in center-back at the hem, draw a curving line, cut away the excess, leaving enough to (at least) make a rolled hem. The style is sort of similar to a Men's Tudor Surcoat, think of the vest that Henry VIII wore, except for the yoke and pleats, it's sort of a cape with arm holes, at shoulder level instead of at the sides near the waist, circular when laid flat. Hope that helps. I'll try to dig up a book and pg # that you can check at the library or book store, with a pattern illustration and a garment picture as well.

[Xana]

That would be great! Thanks. And no rush. It was just a long term idea. I want Mace's tunic first. ;D

[Schph Gochi]

Well Nova....
Have done that "extra layer looking thingy" on my new tunic....had to do it by necessity! When I made the first two tunics with the McCall's pattern...I used the "large" size....so for this Simplicity I also used "large"....the McCalls idea of large was really not that large but I can tell you that Simplicity's idea of large is gigantic! The shoulder seam came down way too low....so I was able to jack it up using that extra fold thingy....looks pretty good!

[Nova Darklighter]

Excellent, yes, I've always thought that Simplicity ran a bit large. Glad it came out, and looks good.

[Schph Gochi]

Once again....good to see ya back Nova! ;D

[Ephanie Shaduun]

I'm going to base my first outer tunic of Ki-Adi-Mundi's, mostly 'cause I think it's cool, but also partly out of necessity, since they didn't have the yardage I needed for sleeves in the material that I a bought. (It was clearance. ;D)
I'm having a newbie moment. AOTC?

[Schph Gochi]

AOTC.....Attack of the Clones....lol

and the Ki Adi idea sounds cool.....his outfit is really unique....

[Nova Darklighter]

Yes I like his tunic/robe, it seems very practical, to short to trip in.

[Leda EmBorr]

Just for the info...I made a pattern for my tunic by tracing the top of my karate uniform onto big newsprint paper, leaving extra around the edges for a hem and seams. Then I just cut the sleeves longer because I wanted the shoulder tucks. Not long enough though, the sleeves are still too short.

For a really quick tunic, you could just buy the top of a very lightweight COTTON gi and dye it tan, or beige or whatever. That was my alternative if I messed up on the sewing.

[Jauhzmynn Enz]

I found a great pattern for a Haori styled Over tunic is anyone's interested.
Simplicity #5839
Size A Xra small throughX-tra large

It has patterns for a Haori, Kimono, Obi and a narrow tie for the Obi.

[Koda Vonnor]

Resurecting this thread, cuz the name fits.

I have a a few general questions about the outer tunic.

Did you line the whole tunic? I just lined the sleeves and the skirt, but not the upper torso area. I did put in a big "U" shaped yoke up around the shoulders and down the front sides to just above the waist. I sewed this in on the 'skin'-side to help build up the shoulders and chest a bit. Basically this doubles the fabric thickness in this area. It seemed to come out pretty nice. I copied this from a judo gi.

Cut the skirt on the bias? Or just flare it out a bit on the sides? Or just have one-piece from shoulder to hem? I see from the close-ups of the movie tunics that there is a herringbone look to where the side seams come together but it doesn't look like a 45deg angle to the pattern. I wonder if anybody else has tried to duplicate that look.

Interfacing in the collar? Or just fold the fabric a bit for thickness? How did you fold the collar before sewing it on?

And something to share.

When I made my 2nd tunic, I used a crinkle fabric that had a decent amount of stretch. I cut the sleeves by making rectangles about 30" long by 25" wide (they will fold to 12" across giving 1/2" seams). The trouble is, I cut the lining for the sleeves the same size as the sleeves. But since the sleeves were so stretchy across their width, by the time I went to catch the lining inside the cuffs, the lining was too small around to match the sleeve. I actually had to cut open the lining back to about the elbow, and add a gusset (a long narrow triangle of material) to make the sleeve lining flare out to the cuff so it matched up where I caught it inside the cuff.

Note to self: cut non-stretchy lining a bit bigger than stretchy outer fabric.

~ Koda

[JediKai]

I haven't lined any of my tunics. I make them of linen or raw silk. I'm not trying to recreate Obi-wan's fabric (which did seem to need to be lined).

I've done both one piece and a waist seam. I cut the skirt on the one with the waist seam as a trapezoid in front and as a rounded skirt in back.

The collar is one long folded piece which I also interfaced.