Penitus
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Posts: 6
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Post by Penitus on Feb 28, 2005 16:23:48 GMT -5
Greetings, I am a long time reader, first time poster. I have a query I think many of you can help me with. I recently started trying to construct a lightsaber myself using a tutorial from Big Yellow Box. It was Style IV. Anyway, using a rotory tool I had bought specifically for this project, I was about the carve the grip designs in, when I had not one, but two cutting based dremmel accessories break on me as soon as I started cutting. It's probably not as simple as this, but am I cutting wrong? I'm just so completely confused here. Perhaps my rotory tool doesn't contain a fast enough speed that I need? I guess I was just under the assumption when I started it would cut through like a hot knife through butter. If anyone could give me pointers or tips, I am in severe need of it. I've invested more money in this than I should have already.
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Mon-Jas Charan
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"Poena Vigoratus. Pullus cavo vix. Palma , est eternus"
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Post by Mon-Jas Charan on Feb 28, 2005 16:32:28 GMT -5
[glow=red,2,300]
First of all ... It will not cut through like a knife through butter. You need to take it slow ... very slooooowly.
When I made my style IV ... I took me about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to make all the cuts.
In several onthers I made ... I used 2 to 3 cutting wheels per chrome tubes I cut for a saber ... let the blade to the cutting, do not push the cutting wheel.
[/glow]
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Penitus
Message Board Member
Posts: 6
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Post by Penitus on Feb 28, 2005 16:41:35 GMT -5
So just because my rotory tool was only 30 bucks and has one speed, this shouldn't make a difference in theory?
And iif Im not to be pressing on the walls, how can you follow into the shapes of the patterns?
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Post by Saberbelt on Feb 28, 2005 16:41:59 GMT -5
You could try a different, stronger cutting blade. Go into Home Depot, Lowe's, or any other big chain - go to the tool section and find the dremel stuff - look for a cutter that is recommended for your application, i.e. cutting sink tube or pipe. I have a huge assortment of cutters at home and I broke my share of the "cheap" blades that came with my rotary tool Dave
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Penitus
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Post by Penitus on Feb 28, 2005 16:45:59 GMT -5
The two that broke were actually the ones that came from Home Depot. Neither was designed for cutting through pipe though. I didn't even know such a cutter exists.
I also know I sound like I just shoved the blade into the pipe and tried cutting out a shape, I really was going slowly when they broke.
I guess I'll go look for a better cutting tool and go even slower.
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Post by Saberbelt on Feb 28, 2005 18:03:21 GMT -5
If you get a better cutting wheel then your speed shouldn't matter. Just remeber to let the cutting wheel do the work, if you put pressure on it then it will break. I know there is a Diamond Cutting blade for the Rotary Tools that should be able to handle metal without a problem. Here is that info from the stunt blade thread (have to bump that with an update):
Like I said, get a cutting blade made for metal and you should be fine. Remember that sink tube is Nickle Plated Brass, so that may need a specific cutting wheel
Dave
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Penitus
Message Board Member
Posts: 6
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Post by Penitus on Feb 28, 2005 20:10:36 GMT -5
Interesting. It never crossed my mind to use a wheel to cut. Rather, I had been using a cutting bit type device like so...
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Feb 28, 2005 20:57:18 GMT -5
Oh yes, the wheel works much better with the pipe. I made a Style III. One way to mark where you want to cut is to mark the lines on a piece of paper and then cover that with masking tape to attach it to the tube. You should still be able to see the lines through the tape. Or, if you're very good with freehand drawing, put the masking tape on the tube and draw the cut lines on it. The tape will give you a little protection while you cut, and you just peel it off when you're done.
For really long cuts, it's best to clamp the tube in a vice so you can have both hands free. I used a work bench with a vice-top. And I also wore safety glasses and mask. I had to prop the glasses up a little to keep them from fogging up, but they kept anything bad out.
You will also want a grinding tool to smooth the edges of the pipe after you've cut it. It's very easy and quick to do and you'll have no sharp edges to scratch or catch on things.
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Penitus
Message Board Member
Posts: 6
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Post by Penitus on Feb 28, 2005 22:18:29 GMT -5
Well, that was certainly the problem.
I went in and used one of the wheels that came with the rotory tool, went about the same speed I had before. Sure enough, it worked a LOT better.
Thanks everyone! If I have anymore problems, I'll be sure to come back for more expertly advice.
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