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Post by Nova Darklighter on Feb 2, 2006 0:36:59 GMT -5
I started this at the requst of someone who'd like the link to or directions for the making of such a robe, one w/o the tucks & no seams. So for those of you who have done them that way, pitch in, and throw the advice this way, she a beggining level sewer. Thanks, I'll post more soon, but it's closing time at the I Cafe.
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JediKai
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Post by JediKai on Feb 2, 2006 1:47:37 GMT -5
I used the following as my pattern. It has no shoulder tuck or seams. It does require a lot of fabric. I'm 5'2" and I use 8-9 yd of 60 in wide fabric. I think the sewing is fairly easy as it is mostly straight seams. The most difficult parts of construction are adapting a pattern and some gathering of the hood into the neckline. www.rebellegion.com/jedigarb/robe.html
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Post by jedi12 on Feb 2, 2006 2:01:52 GMT -5
Thanks Kai That helps me with me next robe
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Post by Jeffrek on Feb 2, 2006 8:28:27 GMT -5
Thats essentially the same way I did mine too. Making the body of the robe was very easy as its simply sewn up the sides to the armpit and down the sleeve to the cuff.
I used alot of wool too but the amih tof fabric really does make a difference in it looking nice and moving well.
There are some tricky bits of course and some sizing isues to take into consideration.
Neck hole size - when I first made mine I sized the neck hole from a tshirt. This was a mistake as when you wear the robe 'open' how it normally is the front edges sit too close to the neck. The neck hole should be large enough so that when open the edges should be roughly level with your shoulders really. Just make it bigger a little at a time and test fit.
Gathering the hood can be a bit tricky if you havent done it before but having a little patience really helps.
The final thing that was a pain was the bottom hem. As the bottom hem is a large curve its tricky to pin and sew correctly. I ended up hand stitching mine as it looked wrinkled when I tried using the machine. My robe has quite deep seams on both the hem and cuff. Alot of jedi robes do from what reference I had and the extra depth and added material adds more weight which helps with movement and flow too.
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Post by Olos Nay on Feb 2, 2006 10:23:35 GMT -5
Same here - this seams to be THE reference on jedi robes. Need to take into account one thing: the taller you are, the more material you will need (it seams obvious, but the bottom of the robe is exponentially increasing in size...) the hardest part is fitting the hood to the robe. One thing I really like about this pattern is how it falls - it looks really great. here is how it looks in my case: hope this helps
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Post by Primrodo on Feb 2, 2006 13:41:45 GMT -5
Mine right now also has no shoulder seams and I had it made much like a T-tunic and it turned out great!
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Feb 2, 2006 22:41:01 GMT -5
A trick for the hem is to get someone else to pin it up for you... otherwise it's very difficult to get it even and customized for you.
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Post by Jan-Qui Coran on Feb 2, 2006 23:04:57 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. All these ideas & suggestions are great. I'm 5'2" tall & have 9 yds of wool material to use for a robe. Will that be enough material for my height? I'm practicing by making a robe out of cheap cotton/muslin to see how it goes together & make a pattern that will work for me. I did print out the link for reference. This is going to be a challenge.
Also besides tropical wool what is a good robe fabric that can be found (I've been looking around) for a light weight ,washable robe to wear in real warm weather, example Florida? I could go without a robe but I always wear my robe when I'm in costume at an event.Thanks.
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JediKai
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Post by JediKai on Feb 3, 2006 1:02:42 GMT -5
That should be enough fabric as long as it is 58-60 in wide, which wool normally is. Good to practice out of muslin, but that normally isn't 60 in wide. I agree, the bottom hem should be hand sewn. Here is my photo of the hem of Qui-Gon's robe from Dressing a Galaxy public.fotki.com/Kait/star_wars/fidm_-_dressing_a/3quigon5.htmlI also noted that the edge of the robe opening is just a narrow fold-over and then stitched. I've done the entire thing by hand.
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Post by Jan-Qui Coran on Feb 3, 2006 14:14:45 GMT -5
Thank you for all your suggestions. They really help. The wool fabric is 60" wide. I thought also that I may have to add more muslin fabric to the practice robe because I didn't take into consideration the pleat at the back & the bottom width of the hem or the hems in the front. What would be a good hem width for the opening of the robe? I'm tentatively thinking of putting in "pouch"/w velcro at the side seam or front opening to place my f/x saber in, so I can put it away when not using it. I've seen & heard this has been done a lot. The only thing else I'd like to add--still thinking it out is having some kind of hidden pocket inside the robe to carry small items that can't fit into the utility belt--that's one area when I'm in costume that I have a slight problem with--I've been trying different things but haven't hit on quite the right solution yet. I also thought of maybe making a pouch that would hang from the shoulder but be velcroed in place--so it doesn't slip off the shoulder--any ideas?
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Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Feb 3, 2006 14:44:20 GMT -5
I think that'll be a bit hard todo if my subject is widder from wrist to wrist(arms extended) than the fabric.
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Post by Primrodo on Feb 3, 2006 16:02:22 GMT -5
Than 120"? There is a seam at the back so as long as 60" is long enough from middle to wrist you are good
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Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Feb 3, 2006 17:42:16 GMT -5
It'd work, but I don't really like seams down the back. I'd rather they be at the shoulder and down the sides because they'er hidden. Shoulder seams on my robe are hiddne by the hood when it's down.
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Post by Primrodo on Feb 3, 2006 19:08:57 GMT -5
Yes, but I mean the ones in the movie have a seam done the middle of the back, so they just made a simple fold over Drew the pattern and attached the sides.
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Post by Jeffrek on Feb 3, 2006 21:12:19 GMT -5
This thread is also about making a robe without shoulder seams.
While doing it this way uses more material its closer to what is seen on screen and they really do flow and move so well that its the only way I will make mine.
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