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Post by dalailala on Jul 1, 2007 19:51:16 GMT -5
I haven't been brave enough to start my costume yet, I don't even actually know how to operate the sewing machine as of yet.  I started tonight on a Simplicity "Sewing for Dummies" brand apron, for practice and to learn how to use the sewing machine. I've only gotten as far as washing the material and cutting out the paper pattern pieces that I need - that's the entirety of my sewing experience! So, let the questions begin! What do I do about the edges that are unraveling? I am practicing with very cheap, very thin muslin. The pattern called for 45" material, which is what I have, but it shrank so much that I can't fit all of the pattern pieces on the length of fabric that I have. Is this just because of the cheap muslin or will this be a problem if I get better material for the real tunic? Speaking of too little material... the Simplicity pattern 5840 only goes up to size XL, and I'm usually at least XXL, sometimes more if I want it roomy. I have heard, and it seems true in this case, that Simplicity patterns run a bit large, but I am concerned. I took one of my own wrap style shirts and laid it out on the pattern and the XL actually looks about right, except that doesn't allow much for the seams/hems and such. Can I just draw an extra inch or so out from the XL line on the pattern? Maybe a bit more flare in the hips? (I recall reading Ani-Chay's article on the A-line for big gals....) Ummm... I guess that's it for now. I'm sure I'll have more later. Thanks! Lala |
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Jul 1, 2007 20:52:54 GMT -5
What do I do about the edges that are unraveling? I am practicing with very cheap, very thin muslin. There are a few things that you can do: (1) After sewing the seam, you can then sew it again, close to the edge with a zigzag stitch. There are still a few loose threads, but that stops of the worse of the unraveling. (2) After sewing the seam, fold the edges inward and zigzag over that. This will catch all the loose threads, but you need to have a seam wide enough to do that. (3) If you need something fast, there is a product called Fray-Chek that you get in little bottles at the notions section of a fabric store. You just put it on the edge and that sort of bonds the threds in, like nail polish on pantyhose. But it's really only if you need something fast. It can discolor some fabric, which is usually not a problem on the inside seam, but it's also a bit more expensive than an extra zigzag stitch. There are other seams, that finish off the edges, but they're more complicated to explain. For plain seams, I usually just use method (2) because I don't like unfinished seams on my costumes. The pattern called for 45" material, which is what I have, but it shrank so much that I can't fit all of the pattern pieces on the length of fabric that I have. Is this just because of the cheap muslin or will this be a problem if I get better material for the real tunic? Fabric shrinkage is really hard to guess. It can depend on the fabric type and weave and manufacturer. To play it safe, get an extra 1/2 yard. Speaking of too little material... the Simplicity pattern 5840 only goes up to size XL, and I'm usually at least XXL, sometimes more if I want it roomy. I have heard, and it seems true in this case, that Simplicity patterns run a bit large, but I am concerned. I took one of my own wrap style shirts and laid it out on the pattern and the XL actually looks about right, except that doesn't allow much for the seams/hems and such. Can I just draw an extra inch or so out from the XL line on the pattern? Maybe a bit more flare in the hips? (I recall reading Ani-Chay's article on the A-line for big gals....) Yes, for simple patterns, adding an extra inch or so is fine. Adding inches is usually a problem for pattern pieces and lots of fitting, but the Jedi tunics are pretty simple. Yes, for more hips add more flare for them. No matter what shape your are, your clothes will always look better if the cut of them follows the shape you have. Take a skirt that looks nice on you and use that for a guide for the bottom of the tunic. Good luck! |
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Post by dalailala on Jul 2, 2007 6:04:26 GMT -5
Thank you!
-Lala
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Post by Koda Vonnor on Jul 2, 2007 8:34:59 GMT -5
Using "pinking" scissors (the zig-zag type) will help reduce unraveling too.
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Post by dalailala on Jul 2, 2007 16:33:47 GMT -5
I've always wondered what pinking shears were for. My mother always had a pair in the sewing box but I had no idea what they did...
-Lala
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Jul 2, 2007 17:38:15 GMT -5
Aaaaaaah, good point! I forgot about pinking shears. Yes, a zigzag edge will unravel less. But it's not a cure for regular wear and tear of the finished costume. It just holds back the unraveling of the edges of the fabric pieces while you're sewing them together.
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Jul 2, 2007 22:53:45 GMT -5
If you're going to attempt to make the pattern larger, I suggest that you pin the fabric pieces together after you cut it and have someone pin it on to to size, then you can cut off the extra. Also, keep in mind that if you make the pieces bigger, they may not fit on the fabric like the instructions say they will.
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Post by dalailala on Jul 3, 2007 6:03:04 GMT -5
Thanks, Leda, good idea. I have an entire bolt of the cheap muslin to practice with, so I've got plenty to work with there, but when I buy the real thing I am definitely going to buy extra material. And looking at the tunic on the fold thing, I think I'll look for 60" material, too, just to be sure I CAN cut it larger. There's no way a 45" piece of material is going to wrap around me!
-Lala
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Post by Leda EmBorr on Jul 3, 2007 12:01:48 GMT -5
I have that problem with crinkle gauze. It comes in 45" width, but when you wash it it gets even narrower. Sometimes I have trouble laying out even one piece of pattern. I have to stretch it out again.
And don't froget to wash the fabric first. I made that mistake once, and the costume shrunk, while the lining didn't. I had to take it apart and redo it. Also, be aware that different fabrics shrink at different percentages.
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Post by Nova Darklighter on Jul 3, 2007 20:21:44 GMT -5
Yes, you can just add to the pattern by drawing around the edges.
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Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Jul 3, 2007 21:21:59 GMT -5
And take your time.
TO solve the hem ravel problem. You make a very small hem, iron it flat, sew it, then make another the lenght of hem you DO want, iron it, then sew. Yeah it takes a while to do that folding, ironing and whatnot, but it's worth it. The hems look crips and no hanging threads.
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JediKai
Message Board Member
TJA Savior
Posts: 5,560
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Post by JediKai on Jul 4, 2007 5:03:37 GMT -5
You actually only need to sew once. Fold it over twice, ironing each time and then sew near the edge.
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Post by Ani-Chay Pinn on Jul 4, 2007 10:45:21 GMT -5
Yes, you can save a little time by folding twice and sewing once, but only if you don't skimp on the ironing. That's what makes it work, plus the natural fabric itself holds a crease well and is generally rough enough to have the friction to kept it in place while sewing.
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Post by dalailala on Jul 5, 2007 20:50:44 GMT -5
Thank you all for all of the help! I'm hoping to make some progress on this thing soon. I get a bit of a break from school in another month, and will have about 3 weeks free before DragonCon/fall semester.
-Lala
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JediKai
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TJA Savior
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Post by JediKai on Jul 5, 2007 22:55:34 GMT -5
crinkle gauze is such a pain on which to sew. I just finished another undertunic (one or more for each day of Dragon*Con!).
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