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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 1, 2006 15:26:33 GMT -5
im planning on starting my first lightsabre prop based on the style 8 of the yellow box lightsabres bigyellowbox.tripod.com/index.htmsince i never built one myself i want to try it out with a blueprint to get the basic concept. i also have to buy myself a rotary tool, since i dont have on and no longer live at my parents house to use my father's tools. he didnt have a dremmel anyway. i hope it turns out alright, because i might end up using the techniques i learn for future sabers when i rotoscope a few fight scenes with my little brother and my roommate. so i deffinatly do not plan to stop at making one. but if anyone has any ideas or advice that could help me out it would be much appreciated. |
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Post by Starkindler (The Naked Jedi) on Apr 1, 2006 15:48:10 GMT -5
www.sciplus.comvery value priced rotary tools Lowe's should have all the parts except the strap loops (also called footman's loops) they can be had from National hardware (If you really get stuck I may have a few left over). The PVC pipe can be hard to find in some areas. Another member posted the serial # and part # from Lowe's in another thread in this section last year..... It is time consuming but the directions are so good that the process is not difficult to follow: I built a style VIII BYB saber for my brother for Christmas...... 
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 1, 2006 15:56:26 GMT -5
i actually also wanted to modify the design a bit to incorperate a blade into it so i can practice and rotoscope it. i was going to nix the electronics to that end.
beutifull saber though, how long did it take you?
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Post by tanzanlinnear on Apr 2, 2006 5:04:12 GMT -5
It should be possible to do all the major cuts of that saber without using a rotary tool. The only time I used a rotary tool on this saber (still not completed) was to drill holes...  |
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 2, 2006 9:28:21 GMT -5
how did you do it without a rotary
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Post by tanzanlinnear on Apr 2, 2006 9:59:19 GMT -5
It really wasn't that tricky. This pic of the saber before I put the emitter in place shows how the 'line' goes all the way to the end of the tube.  Draw a template on tracing paper and cut away the sections that would be cut away on the metal and stick it onto your pipe. With a hacksaw, make cuts from the end of the pipe to about 4 mm from the edge of the template (Do not cut along the edges/ines of the template or you will make mistakes) Cut lines into the pipe at appx 4-5 mm intervals untill the entire section is in strips. Then use pliars to bend and snap the strips away. Then all you have to do is use hand-files to file the rough edges back to the clean lines of the template (It is worth using the edge of the file to put marks showing where the line of the template is so if the template is torn or removed, you still have a straight line to file to  |
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 2, 2006 17:26:07 GMT -5
i might try that, but im going to try a rotary first and see how that works, and then i might try that to see the difference. y'know a personal experience thing.
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Post by Tai-Shon Quinn on Apr 2, 2006 18:10:13 GMT -5
Tanzan Linnear, how did you do the end of the emitter?
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Post by tanzanlinnear on Apr 2, 2006 18:40:42 GMT -5
i might try that, but im going to try a rotary first and see how that works, and then i might try that to see the difference. y'know a personal experience thing. Even when using a rotary tool, it's a good idea not to try and cut directly along the lines of the template, but give yourself a few mm clearance incase of any skips. The excess material can always be filed away, leaving a much cleaner finish to the line than the rotary tool can make by itself. For some small cuts it is necessary for a rotary tool, but for many, it is not essential, and hacksaws and hand files will afford you much greater control of the cut Tanzan Linnear, how did you do the end of the emitter? The saber's emitter is part of a lock, a metal washer and part of the internal dowel the saber was built on. It is the chrome ring that would go between the outer part of the locking cylinder (where you insert the key) and the door, with a metal washer glued into place, which I filed the center hole larger to fit over the internal dowel, which is chrome and has an inset brass nut [Edit to fix quotes] |
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 2, 2006 20:06:59 GMT -5
when you say hacksaw, do you mean the full ones or the ones where each side is open, like those little ones where it is just the blade and a plastic bit
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Post by tanzanlinnear on Apr 3, 2006 3:12:27 GMT -5
Both. For 'big' cuts, it's a good idea to use a heavy duty hacksaw, but for very small cuts (like when cutting an internal cutaway like the mid-grip cutaway of my Quinlan Vos saber) you have to use a small hacksaw (called a Junior Hacksaw in the UK) as the heavy duty ones are too bulky to get inside the pipe |
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 3, 2006 11:23:50 GMT -5
alright, thanks for the help tanzan
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 3, 2006 19:41:19 GMT -5
alright, i just got all the parts today and im going to start construction now. wish me luck |
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Post by Xorren Hedrasii on Apr 3, 2006 20:51:31 GMT -5
Luck!
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Post by Ldi-Ovef Te_Azi on Apr 3, 2006 22:31:09 GMT -5
well so far so good, i have the grip all set out, the pvc one, and the design looks good so far. wish i had a digi cam or i would post it. there is more good news, i havent killed myself so all is well. so far im pretty happy with the result, cant wait to see this thing finished.
man this site has inspired in me all my star wars nerdliness, this is fun. being a star wars nerd is so much fun....hehe
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