Post by tanzanlinnear on Jan 30, 2006 12:43:22 GMT -5
At a request from Master Lyghtsyder, I am writing how I achieved my DIY Graflex. The saber itself is not complete, as I am waiting for parts (grips, circuit board etc) so this is not a complete saber tutorial. It is not telling you how to make an Anakin/Luke Skywalker lightsaber, just how to make the Graflex tube, which can then be used as one. It does not cover how to make the clamp for two reasons:
1. I don't like them, and won't have one on a saber (but that is just my preference)
2. It would require an extra pipe (possibly 2 inch diameter) which means extra expense, and the idea was to make a Graflex tube on a tight budget. If someone does wish to add a clamp to their Graflex, I would suggest using 2 or 2 1/2 inch pipe, and following the method detailed below for constructing the emitter ring/ears.
What you will need:
Tools
A hack saw
A rotary tool or electric drill
Cyanoacrylate (refered to hereafter as Super Glue)
Tracing paper
Duct Tape (black)
'Magic Tape'
Hand Files
Pliars (flat grips, not needle-nosed)
A domestic oven
Heavy gloves (Thick leather, industrial etc is fine, but they MUST be heat resistant! Rubber gloves will not be sufficient!)
Parts
1 10 9/8 inch section of 1 1/4 inch stainless steel pipe
1 10 3/8 inch section of 3/4 inch stainless steel pipe
1 9 inch section of 1 inch stainless steel pipe*
1 3/4 inch brass nut
1 Can of metallic bronze paint.
2 1/2 inch solid rubber washers.
2 TV/FM co-Axial cable plugs
Points of note
After realizing that some people have never used tools to create their own saber, I am writing this guide in as much detail as possible, so they will be able to follow the guide word for word, learning to use the tools as they go. For those who are familiar with the use of tools, simply use your judgement in following the essential instructions.
The tutorial I am writing will not provide an exact replica of Graflex unit, but it will be a close approximation, certainly an acceptable alternative for someone on a tight budget. It will not be be identical to an original, but it will certainly be recognizeable.
When making any cuts in metal, take your time, and be mindfull of your tools. Hurrying or forcing a cut will likely only lead to the tool 'skipping', and anything that makes a small mark in metal, can do serious damage to your hand. Always cut away from yourself, and if possible, keep fingers at least 2 inches from any cutting edge, in case it should slip.
Preperation
First, you will need to cut the pipes to length. First, draw two straight lines (appx 3 inches long) on the tracing paper and cut them both out, leaving an inch of paper on either side of the drawn line. These are your cutting templates. Wrap them around the pipe so the line forms a ring, and then use 'magic tape' to secure them in the desired position. This serves the dual purpose of a) giving you a clear line to cut along (which will not get rubbed away, like ink on the pipe) and it will also offer protection to the pipe should the saw slip.
Use the hacksaw to cut through the pie, so you are left with a section the length you desire. Repeat the procedure on all three pipes.
Buttons
Take a co-axial cable grip and unscrew the main shroud. Remove and discard the inner cable grip. Using the base of the main cable grip as a template, use a pen to mark a circle on the 1/2 inch rubber washer and then use a scalpal to cut away the excess rubber. It is not essential to achieve a perfectly round cut, but it is essential that the remaining center piece of the washer sit snugly in the top of the cable grip (on top of the white plastic core).
Take the bronze paint, apply a coat to the washer, and leave it to dry. Once the paint has dried, screw the main shroud back into place, and you will have something looking like the rear button on a Graflex. Taking your hand files, file away the ridges on the main part of the cable grip (NOT the ridges on the shroud) untill it is completely smooth. Now take a rotary tool with a cutting disc and cut away aproximately half of the lower cable grip (If the filed ridges were still in place, you would be cutting directly in the middle of the ridges)
Repeat the process with the second washer and cable grip, and you will have two buttons (more ESB than RotS, but it works...)
Exterior Pipe
This will be the piece that features the distinctive S curve at the emitter end. When looking down the inside of the pipes, you will see a raised line where the pipes have been formed. This should be placed at either the back or front of the saber, as it does leave a very slightly noticeable line down the outer surface, so should not be lined up on the 'side'. Wrap a piece of tracing paper around the 1 1/4 inch pipe, and using a pen (prefereably liquid ink or gel) draw lines to mark the paper with lines that, when flattened, will still give the size of the tube's diameter. Remove the tracing paper from the tube (having marked the proper diameter) and fold the paper in half. With the pen, now draw the shape of the S curve on the tracing paper. The deepest part of the S is 1 7/16ths, so your stencil will need to be 2.5 inches. Cut the shape out with scissors, and unfold the tracing paper.
Take the pipe and place the paper template in place over the end, and then use magic tape to secure it in place.
With the hacksaw (or rotary tool if you prefer) cut away the excess pipe. The easiest method, is to cut lines 5mm apart and parallel to the sides of the pipe, from the end of the pipe, to a few mm from the stencil. With the pliars, it should be possible to flex the resulting strips so that they snap away, leaving a very rough S curve. Take a piece of duct tape and stick it to the inside edge of the S curve/emitter shroud. This will protect the inside from any possible slips of files or drill bit. With the hand files, you must now file away the excess material, until you reach the stencil, and you will be left with a perfect S curve. Before removing the stencil, mark the two circular cutouts on the side of the pipe just below the S curve.
On the inside of the shroud, mark a point on the duct tape 9mm from the tip and a second point directly beneath, 18 mm from the tip.
Fit a cone-shaped engraving tip to a drill or rotary tool.
Hold the tip of the cone directly in the middle of the guide mark on the tapee, and apply pressure so it will not slip.
Trigger a quick burst from the drill/rotary tool, and apply slightly more pressure against the pipe.
This will create a minor indentation that will be a guide for the actual drill bit, and prevent it 'skipping' across the surface.
Replace the engraving cone with a 4mm drill bit, hold the point of the bit in the guide indentation and apply a firm pressure against the pipe.
Trigger a constant burst from the drill/rotary tool, and gradually apply more pressure against the pipe.
Vary between applying pressure and releasing slightly to prevent the drill bit blunting and sticking in the pipe, but only shift the pressure, do not let the drill bit come away from the pipe. Now drill two more 4mm holes in between them. Taking the hand files again, file away the excess material so you are left with a rectangular slit in the back of the shroud. This is where the 'ears' will pass.
In the same manner as the slit was cut, drill a 4mm hole in the center of the circular cutouts, and use a round file to enlarge the hole to the edge of the stencil.
You now need to make the holes to secure the buttons. Once you have positioned the buttons and marked the stencil, use the rotary tool in the same manner as above to drill the holes through the outer and middle tubes (leaving the innermost tube intact) Once drilled, use the hand files to enlarge the holes to size. It is adviseable to test fit one of the completed buttons into place when making the final adjustments to the other hole, so the holes in the tubes will line up with each other.
Your exterior pipe is now finished, and may be put to one side.
Emitter ring/ears
Take the same pipe used to cut the exterior pipe, and wrap a line cutting stencil 5/8 inch from the tip. Locate the inner line of the pipe and very carefully cut down this line untill you reach the line of the cutting stencil. It is much easier to make the cut first, rather than cutting the section away and then trying to cut it. Carefully cut the 5/8 section from the pipe, and when viewed end on, it will have a C shape. Turn your oven to maximum (mine went up to 290 C) Place the section on a baking tray and leave it in the oven for an hour. It is possible to use this time to cut the S curve into the exterior pipe. You must now prepare the pliars, by applying a layer of magic tape to the inside edge of the jaws (to dull any grips cut in). After the hour, get the 3.4 inch pipe and put on your gloves. As mentioned before, these must be heatproof, or you will seriously burn yourself. Turn off the oven and remove the baking tray. Note that the metal section will be extremely hot. Do not attempt to touch it with bare skin or you will seriously burn yourself. Using the pliars and gloved fingertips, bend 1 cm of the the cut edges of the C shape back by nearly 90 degrees. Place the C shape over the 3/4 inch pipe, and gently press it around untill the edges touch, leaving you with a small ring with two 1 cm 'ears' at the back. Use the plairs to press the 'ears' together to maintain the form, but it is not essential that they remain closed together when released. Infact, it is preferencial if they remain seperated by a few mm. Place the ring under cold running water for a minute, to ensure it is now cool enough to handle with your bare hands. Gently run a file around the top and bottom edges, and gently curve the ends of the 'ears' This is now the completed emitter ring/ears and can be put to one side.
Inner core
Take the 3/4 inch pipe and wrap duct tape around it (sideways, not lengthways) untill it fits snuggly into the 1 inch pipe. As the parts are all metal, it is not necessary to use extra duct tape to provide weight, so it is only necessary to wrap the tape around the end of the pipe, and 8 inches further up the pipe, leaving a section of the pipe clear (as this is what will fit through the emitter ring and be visible beneath it) Apply a fine layer of superglue to the duct tape, and slide it into the 1 inch tube, so the bottom ends are flush with each other (leaving the untaped pipe exposed) Take the 3/4 inch nut, and gently file the sides so it can be placed inside the 3/4 inch pipe, and use more superglue to hold this in place at the un-taped end to form the emitter. In the same manner as above, wrap duct tape around the 1 inch pipe untill it fits snugly into the exterior pipe. The inner core is now complete, and can be put to one side.
Construction
Most of the hard work has now been done, and it is possible to begin constructing the Graflex. This is not a final construction, as the parts used for the endcap of the saber might mean the inner core needs to be shortened. (if accomodating a flat drawer handle for instance)
Take the exterior tube, and remove any remaining stencils or duct tape. Take the emitter ring/ears and test fit the ears through the slit in the back of the emitter shroud (if they do not fit, then re-file the slit untill they do) Once the ears fit through, press the emitter ring/ears fully into place. Take the inner core, and insert it into the base of the outer tube. When the 3/4 inch pipe becomes visible at the base of the S curve, gently guide it through the emitter ring (this will hold the emitter ring/ears in place.
Untill you have decided upon the details of the end cap, it is not adviseable to glue the inner core or the emitter ring/ears into place, as they may need to be repositioned.
Take the completed buttons, and snap them into place. They should be a tight fit, but it is adviseable to apply a coating of superglue to the insides of the holes just to ensure a perfect fit.
The result, should look something like this:
Here's a picture of an authentic Graflex for comparison:
Due to the nut in the end of the 3/4 pipe, this will not accomadate a blade of any kind, but is ideal to be worn on a belt.
* To save on expense, you could make the inner core with only the 3/4 pipe and simply bulk it out with more duct tape, however, this would result in a lighter end product, so it would be adviseable to coat a full 9 inches of pipe with duct tape to compensate for the reduced materials.
If anyone has any questions not covered, please feel free to ask.
Best of luck, and may the Force be with you
1. I don't like them, and won't have one on a saber (but that is just my preference)
2. It would require an extra pipe (possibly 2 inch diameter) which means extra expense, and the idea was to make a Graflex tube on a tight budget. If someone does wish to add a clamp to their Graflex, I would suggest using 2 or 2 1/2 inch pipe, and following the method detailed below for constructing the emitter ring/ears.
What you will need:
Tools
A hack saw
A rotary tool or electric drill
Cyanoacrylate (refered to hereafter as Super Glue)
Tracing paper
Duct Tape (black)
'Magic Tape'
Hand Files
Pliars (flat grips, not needle-nosed)
A domestic oven
Heavy gloves (Thick leather, industrial etc is fine, but they MUST be heat resistant! Rubber gloves will not be sufficient!)
Parts
1 10 9/8 inch section of 1 1/4 inch stainless steel pipe
1 10 3/8 inch section of 3/4 inch stainless steel pipe
1 9 inch section of 1 inch stainless steel pipe*
1 3/4 inch brass nut
1 Can of metallic bronze paint.
2 1/2 inch solid rubber washers.
2 TV/FM co-Axial cable plugs
Points of note
After realizing that some people have never used tools to create their own saber, I am writing this guide in as much detail as possible, so they will be able to follow the guide word for word, learning to use the tools as they go. For those who are familiar with the use of tools, simply use your judgement in following the essential instructions.
The tutorial I am writing will not provide an exact replica of Graflex unit, but it will be a close approximation, certainly an acceptable alternative for someone on a tight budget. It will not be be identical to an original, but it will certainly be recognizeable.
When making any cuts in metal, take your time, and be mindfull of your tools. Hurrying or forcing a cut will likely only lead to the tool 'skipping', and anything that makes a small mark in metal, can do serious damage to your hand. Always cut away from yourself, and if possible, keep fingers at least 2 inches from any cutting edge, in case it should slip.
Preperation
First, you will need to cut the pipes to length. First, draw two straight lines (appx 3 inches long) on the tracing paper and cut them both out, leaving an inch of paper on either side of the drawn line. These are your cutting templates. Wrap them around the pipe so the line forms a ring, and then use 'magic tape' to secure them in the desired position. This serves the dual purpose of a) giving you a clear line to cut along (which will not get rubbed away, like ink on the pipe) and it will also offer protection to the pipe should the saw slip.
Use the hacksaw to cut through the pie, so you are left with a section the length you desire. Repeat the procedure on all three pipes.
Buttons
Take a co-axial cable grip and unscrew the main shroud. Remove and discard the inner cable grip. Using the base of the main cable grip as a template, use a pen to mark a circle on the 1/2 inch rubber washer and then use a scalpal to cut away the excess rubber. It is not essential to achieve a perfectly round cut, but it is essential that the remaining center piece of the washer sit snugly in the top of the cable grip (on top of the white plastic core).
Take the bronze paint, apply a coat to the washer, and leave it to dry. Once the paint has dried, screw the main shroud back into place, and you will have something looking like the rear button on a Graflex. Taking your hand files, file away the ridges on the main part of the cable grip (NOT the ridges on the shroud) untill it is completely smooth. Now take a rotary tool with a cutting disc and cut away aproximately half of the lower cable grip (If the filed ridges were still in place, you would be cutting directly in the middle of the ridges)
Repeat the process with the second washer and cable grip, and you will have two buttons (more ESB than RotS, but it works...)
Exterior Pipe
This will be the piece that features the distinctive S curve at the emitter end. When looking down the inside of the pipes, you will see a raised line where the pipes have been formed. This should be placed at either the back or front of the saber, as it does leave a very slightly noticeable line down the outer surface, so should not be lined up on the 'side'. Wrap a piece of tracing paper around the 1 1/4 inch pipe, and using a pen (prefereably liquid ink or gel) draw lines to mark the paper with lines that, when flattened, will still give the size of the tube's diameter. Remove the tracing paper from the tube (having marked the proper diameter) and fold the paper in half. With the pen, now draw the shape of the S curve on the tracing paper. The deepest part of the S is 1 7/16ths, so your stencil will need to be 2.5 inches. Cut the shape out with scissors, and unfold the tracing paper.
Take the pipe and place the paper template in place over the end, and then use magic tape to secure it in place.
With the hacksaw (or rotary tool if you prefer) cut away the excess pipe. The easiest method, is to cut lines 5mm apart and parallel to the sides of the pipe, from the end of the pipe, to a few mm from the stencil. With the pliars, it should be possible to flex the resulting strips so that they snap away, leaving a very rough S curve. Take a piece of duct tape and stick it to the inside edge of the S curve/emitter shroud. This will protect the inside from any possible slips of files or drill bit. With the hand files, you must now file away the excess material, until you reach the stencil, and you will be left with a perfect S curve. Before removing the stencil, mark the two circular cutouts on the side of the pipe just below the S curve.
On the inside of the shroud, mark a point on the duct tape 9mm from the tip and a second point directly beneath, 18 mm from the tip.
Fit a cone-shaped engraving tip to a drill or rotary tool.
Hold the tip of the cone directly in the middle of the guide mark on the tapee, and apply pressure so it will not slip.
Trigger a quick burst from the drill/rotary tool, and apply slightly more pressure against the pipe.
This will create a minor indentation that will be a guide for the actual drill bit, and prevent it 'skipping' across the surface.
Replace the engraving cone with a 4mm drill bit, hold the point of the bit in the guide indentation and apply a firm pressure against the pipe.
Trigger a constant burst from the drill/rotary tool, and gradually apply more pressure against the pipe.
Vary between applying pressure and releasing slightly to prevent the drill bit blunting and sticking in the pipe, but only shift the pressure, do not let the drill bit come away from the pipe. Now drill two more 4mm holes in between them. Taking the hand files again, file away the excess material so you are left with a rectangular slit in the back of the shroud. This is where the 'ears' will pass.
In the same manner as the slit was cut, drill a 4mm hole in the center of the circular cutouts, and use a round file to enlarge the hole to the edge of the stencil.
You now need to make the holes to secure the buttons. Once you have positioned the buttons and marked the stencil, use the rotary tool in the same manner as above to drill the holes through the outer and middle tubes (leaving the innermost tube intact) Once drilled, use the hand files to enlarge the holes to size. It is adviseable to test fit one of the completed buttons into place when making the final adjustments to the other hole, so the holes in the tubes will line up with each other.
Your exterior pipe is now finished, and may be put to one side.
Emitter ring/ears
Take the same pipe used to cut the exterior pipe, and wrap a line cutting stencil 5/8 inch from the tip. Locate the inner line of the pipe and very carefully cut down this line untill you reach the line of the cutting stencil. It is much easier to make the cut first, rather than cutting the section away and then trying to cut it. Carefully cut the 5/8 section from the pipe, and when viewed end on, it will have a C shape. Turn your oven to maximum (mine went up to 290 C) Place the section on a baking tray and leave it in the oven for an hour. It is possible to use this time to cut the S curve into the exterior pipe. You must now prepare the pliars, by applying a layer of magic tape to the inside edge of the jaws (to dull any grips cut in). After the hour, get the 3.4 inch pipe and put on your gloves. As mentioned before, these must be heatproof, or you will seriously burn yourself. Turn off the oven and remove the baking tray. Note that the metal section will be extremely hot. Do not attempt to touch it with bare skin or you will seriously burn yourself. Using the pliars and gloved fingertips, bend 1 cm of the the cut edges of the C shape back by nearly 90 degrees. Place the C shape over the 3/4 inch pipe, and gently press it around untill the edges touch, leaving you with a small ring with two 1 cm 'ears' at the back. Use the plairs to press the 'ears' together to maintain the form, but it is not essential that they remain closed together when released. Infact, it is preferencial if they remain seperated by a few mm. Place the ring under cold running water for a minute, to ensure it is now cool enough to handle with your bare hands. Gently run a file around the top and bottom edges, and gently curve the ends of the 'ears' This is now the completed emitter ring/ears and can be put to one side.
Inner core
Take the 3/4 inch pipe and wrap duct tape around it (sideways, not lengthways) untill it fits snuggly into the 1 inch pipe. As the parts are all metal, it is not necessary to use extra duct tape to provide weight, so it is only necessary to wrap the tape around the end of the pipe, and 8 inches further up the pipe, leaving a section of the pipe clear (as this is what will fit through the emitter ring and be visible beneath it) Apply a fine layer of superglue to the duct tape, and slide it into the 1 inch tube, so the bottom ends are flush with each other (leaving the untaped pipe exposed) Take the 3/4 inch nut, and gently file the sides so it can be placed inside the 3/4 inch pipe, and use more superglue to hold this in place at the un-taped end to form the emitter. In the same manner as above, wrap duct tape around the 1 inch pipe untill it fits snugly into the exterior pipe. The inner core is now complete, and can be put to one side.
Construction
Most of the hard work has now been done, and it is possible to begin constructing the Graflex. This is not a final construction, as the parts used for the endcap of the saber might mean the inner core needs to be shortened. (if accomodating a flat drawer handle for instance)
Take the exterior tube, and remove any remaining stencils or duct tape. Take the emitter ring/ears and test fit the ears through the slit in the back of the emitter shroud (if they do not fit, then re-file the slit untill they do) Once the ears fit through, press the emitter ring/ears fully into place. Take the inner core, and insert it into the base of the outer tube. When the 3/4 inch pipe becomes visible at the base of the S curve, gently guide it through the emitter ring (this will hold the emitter ring/ears in place.
Untill you have decided upon the details of the end cap, it is not adviseable to glue the inner core or the emitter ring/ears into place, as they may need to be repositioned.
Take the completed buttons, and snap them into place. They should be a tight fit, but it is adviseable to apply a coating of superglue to the insides of the holes just to ensure a perfect fit.
The result, should look something like this:
Here's a picture of an authentic Graflex for comparison:
Due to the nut in the end of the 3/4 pipe, this will not accomadate a blade of any kind, but is ideal to be worn on a belt.
* To save on expense, you could make the inner core with only the 3/4 pipe and simply bulk it out with more duct tape, however, this would result in a lighter end product, so it would be adviseable to coat a full 9 inches of pipe with duct tape to compensate for the reduced materials.
If anyone has any questions not covered, please feel free to ask.
Best of luck, and may the Force be with you
As I update the Graflex, I'll update the tutorial 
