Post by tanzanlinnear on Jan 24, 2006 17:26:49 GMT -5
This tutorial will allow you to create a lightsaber similar to An'ya Kuro's, and I thought I'd share the method I used with everyone 
(feel free to move this to another tutorial location if needbe)
I didn't take photos during the construction of the saber, so I will simply describe the process, and post pictures of the finished article
What you will need:
Tools
A hack saw
A rotary tool
6-7 tubes of Cyanoacrylate (refered hereafter as Super Glue)
Tracing paper
1 New roll of Duct Tape
'Magic Tape'
Sharp Scissors
Surgical scalpal
Purple Plastikote Metalic paint
Pink Tetrosyl Special FX Candy paint
1 sheet each of Coarse, Medium and Fine sandpaper
Parts
11.5 inch length of 1/4 inch stainless steel pipe
11.5 inch length of 3/4 inch PVC pipe
11 inch length of 1 inch stainless steel pipe
15 inch section of 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe
2 1 1/4 inch diaphram washers
1 Clothes Rail mounting disc
1 Egg-shaped lid (best to try room deoderizer refills)
1 Covertec knob
1 7 Digit LED lens
1 Piece of metalic silver tape (Comes with the LED lens)
1 Roll of Twine (string appx 2-3mm thick of high cotton content and with a clear 'weave')
Points of note
After realizing that some people have never used tools to create their own saber, I am writing this guide in as much detail as possible, so they will be able to follow the guide word for word, learning to use the tools as they go. For those who are familiar with the use of tools, simply use your judgement in following the essential instructions.
The tutorial I am writing will not provide an exact replica of An'ya Kuro's saber, but it will be a close approximation, as with the ethos of a Padawan's saber being built to resemble their Master's saber. It will be recognizeable, but not identical.
When making any cuts in metal, take your time, and be mindfull of your tools. Hurrying or forcing a cut will likely only lead to the tool 'skipping', and anything that makes a small mark in metal, can do serious damage to your hand. Always cut away from yourself, and if possible, keep fingers at least 2 inches from any cutting edge, in case it should slip.
Preperation
Emitter
Take the clothes rail mounting disc and place the lower end against the base of one of the diaphram washers and mark around it with a pen (preferably gel ink). With the Surgical scalpal, cut through the diaghram washer so the center is removed. Take the outer ring of the washer and slide it up onto the lower end of the mounting disc. Use a thin layer of super glue to secure the washer flush with the underside of the disc. The emmiter is now completed and can be put to one side.
Main Core
The lengths I have quoted above are approximates which can be varied for a more personalized grip length, but I will use them in the tutorial for ease of description.
Having determined the length of your saber grip, you will need to cut each individual pipe to length, so simply repeat the following instructions for each pipe First, draw a straight line (appx 3 inches long) on the tracing paper and cut it out, leaving an inch of paper on either side of the drawn line. This is your cutting template. Wrap it around the pipe so the line forms a ring, and then use 'magic tape' to secure them in the desired position (for cutting the tube ends) This serves the dual purpose of a) giving you a clear line to cut along (which will not get rubbed away, like ink on the pipe) and it will also offer protection to the pipe should the saw slip.
Use the hacksaw to cut through the pipe, so you are left with a section the length you desire.
Once you have cut the three main pipes (1/4 inch stainless steel pipe, 3/4 inch PVC pipe and 1 inch stainless steel pipe) to length, take the 1/4 inch pipe, and wrap 4-5 layers of duct tape (Wrapping sideways around the pipe rather than lengthways) around the pipe. Repeat this process untill the entire length has been covered with duct tape, and it fits snugly into the 3/4 inch PVC pipe. Coat a layer of superglue onto the duct tape, and insert it into the 3/4 inch pipe so the ends are flush with each other.
Now take the 3/4 inch pipe and wrap 4-5 layers of duct tape (Wrapping sideways around the pipe rather than lengthways) around the pipe. Repeat this process untill the entire length has been covered with duct tape, and it fits snugly into the 1 inch stainless steel pipe. Coat a layer of superglue onto the duct tape, and insert it into the 1 inch pipe so on one end all the pipes are flush with each other, but on the other end, the 1/4 and 3/4 inch pipes are extended from the 1 inch pipe by approximately half an inch. This is now the Main Core of the saber (although it is not yet completed)
Take the 1 inch pipe and wrap 4-5 layers of duct tape (Wrapping sideways around the pipe rather than lengthways) around the pipe. Repeat this process untill the entire length has been covered with duct tape, and it can be fitted snugly into the 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe. Once the Main Core can be snuggly inserted into the 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe, remove the Main Core, and strip away one or two layers of duct tape from the 1 inch pipe. Now take the double sided tape, and apply a single layer of double sided tape over the duct tape on the 1 inch tube.
With the roll of twine, begin wrapping a single layer of twine along the entire length of the 1 inch pipe. Ensure that with each new rotation/wrap of the pipe, the twine is pressing tightly against the preceding rotation/wrap. The double sided tape will ensure that the twine remains against the tube. Once you have completely covered the double sided tape with the twine, test fit the Main Core into the 1 3/4 PVC pipe, and it should be a perfect fit. Now you have to take the tubes of SuperGlue and completely coat the outer layer of twine. It will take almost all the tubes to cover the twine as it is absorbed into the twine. Once the glue has dried, the Main Core should fit perfectly into the 1 3/4 PVC pipe. If it is too tight, then take a piece of coarse sandpaper and with a rotating motion of the Main Core, grind down the Superglue untill a perfect fit can be achieved. Gently run the hand file around the emitter end to even up any sharp edges or uneven ends, leaving as flat a surface as possible. Once this is done, the Main Core is completed and can be put to one side.
Outer Shells
Wrap a piece of tracing paper around the 1 3/4 PVC pipe and mark the paper with lines that, when flattened, will still give the size of the tube's diameter. Remove the tracing paper from the tube (having marked the proper diameter) and fold the paper in half. With the pen, now draw the shape of the outer shells on the tracing paper. Cut the shapes out with scissors and unfold the tracing paper.
Take the 1 3/4 inch pipe and use magic tape to secure the paper template against the surface. Using a hacksaw (or a rotary tool if you prefer) cut out the individual shells leaving additionial PVC near the template, as this prevents accidental overcutting of the PVC. Once you have cut out each individual shell, use the surgical scalpal, handfiles and sandpaper to carefully carve the shells to the desired shape. This is extremely time consuming, but do not be tempted to hurry or force a cut, as it can ruin the finish. It must be stressed that PVC is a much more delicate medium than metal, and the slightest nick or slip of a saw can irreperably ruin the finish.
Once the outer shells are completed, test fit them onto the Main Core to determine the placement of the covertec clip and activation lens. Use a pen to indicate the positions of the activation lens, covertec clip and also the positions of the shells on the Main Core. Put a strip of magic tape over the ink on the shells so it does not smear (do not do this for the ink on the Main Core). With the scapal, cut through the shell for the activation lens to be inserted.
Take the covertec knob, and temporarily hold it in place on the outer shell.
Touch a pen through the knob onto the shell to leave a clear mark, and remove the knob.
Fit a cone-shaped engraving tip to a drill or rotary tool.
Hold the tip of the cone directly in the middle of the guide mark on the shell, and apply pressure so it will not slip.
Trigger a quick burst from the drill/rotary tool, and apply slightly more pressure against the shell.
This will create a minor indentation that will be a guide for the actual drill bit, and prevent it 'skipping' across the surface.
Replace the engraving cone with a drill bit (appx 1mm smaller than the screw supplied with the covertec knob), hold the point of the bit in the guide indentation and apply a firm pressure against the shell.
Trigger a constant burst from the drill/rotary tool, and gradually apply more pressure against the shell.
Vary between applying pressure and releasing slightly to prevent the drill bit sticking in the shell, but only shift the pressure, do not let the drill bit come away from the shell.
Construction
Most of the hard work has now been done, and it is possible to begin constructing the saber. This is best done from the emmiter down.
Begin by taking the untouched diaphram washer, and placing it on the emmiter end of the Main Core, and use an application of super to fix it in place. Fill the depression in the washer with super glue and place the lower end of the emmiter assembly into the depression. Once the glue has dried, it will be a solid piece.
Stick the chrome tape on the Main Core so when the shells are put in place, it will be beneath the cut made for the activation lens.
Individually slide each shell onto the the main core, but leave it 5 mm from the desired final position. Apply a layer of super glue to the Main Core, and then quickly slide the shell into it's final position.
When the pommel shell is slid into place, remember that it will extend further than the exposed sections of the Main Core (which have not been wrapped in twine)
Once that is done, apply another layer of super glue to any visible twine. Do not worry if it does not leave a uniform finish on each strand of twine, infact, you want the finish to be irregular.
Next glue the activation lens in place. Obnce the glue has dried, use a piece of magic tape to completely mask the activation lens for when the saber is sprayed.
The saber is now 95% complete.
Taking the pink spray can, coat the egg-shaped lid. This must be done seperately from the main saber so the paint is not affected by the spraying of the main saber.
Leave this to one side to dry.
Take the purple spray can and entirely coat the saber. You may wish to apply several coats of paint.
Once the purple layer has dried, take the pink spray can and apply a very fine layer of paint over the purple. The object of this is not to totally obscure the purple paint, but to create a fine sheen over the top. The candy paint is slightly translucent, so the purple paint should show through.
Once the paint has dried, remove the masking tape from the activation lens.
The following is a rather fiddly endeavour, and must be done quickly, so be sure to know what you need to do.
Apply a fine layer of superglue to the exposed end of the main core and inside of the egg-shaped lid. Use the fingers of one hand to pry apart the lower shrouds, and with your other hand, quickly put the egg-shaped lid in place over the exposed end of the Main Core. When in place, the join of the Main Core and the lid should be concealed by the Shell.
Next, use the rotary tool in the manner previously mentioned to drill the hole for the covertec knob into the walls of the Main Core. The hole already drilled in the Shell will act as a guide.
The result, should look something like this:
Here's a picture of An'ya Kuro's saber for comparison:
This saber will not accomadate a blade of any kind, but is ideal to be worn on a belt.
If anyone has any questions not covered, please feel free to ask.
Best of luck, and may the Force be with you
(feel free to move this to another tutorial location if needbe)
I didn't take photos during the construction of the saber, so I will simply describe the process, and post pictures of the finished article
What you will need:
Tools
A hack saw
A rotary tool
6-7 tubes of Cyanoacrylate (refered hereafter as Super Glue)
Tracing paper
1 New roll of Duct Tape
'Magic Tape'
Sharp Scissors
Surgical scalpal
Purple Plastikote Metalic paint
Pink Tetrosyl Special FX Candy paint
1 sheet each of Coarse, Medium and Fine sandpaper
Parts
11.5 inch length of 1/4 inch stainless steel pipe
11.5 inch length of 3/4 inch PVC pipe
11 inch length of 1 inch stainless steel pipe
15 inch section of 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe
2 1 1/4 inch diaphram washers
1 Clothes Rail mounting disc
1 Egg-shaped lid (best to try room deoderizer refills)
1 Covertec knob
1 7 Digit LED lens
1 Piece of metalic silver tape (Comes with the LED lens)
1 Roll of Twine (string appx 2-3mm thick of high cotton content and with a clear 'weave')
Points of note
After realizing that some people have never used tools to create their own saber, I am writing this guide in as much detail as possible, so they will be able to follow the guide word for word, learning to use the tools as they go. For those who are familiar with the use of tools, simply use your judgement in following the essential instructions.
The tutorial I am writing will not provide an exact replica of An'ya Kuro's saber, but it will be a close approximation, as with the ethos of a Padawan's saber being built to resemble their Master's saber. It will be recognizeable, but not identical.
When making any cuts in metal, take your time, and be mindfull of your tools. Hurrying or forcing a cut will likely only lead to the tool 'skipping', and anything that makes a small mark in metal, can do serious damage to your hand. Always cut away from yourself, and if possible, keep fingers at least 2 inches from any cutting edge, in case it should slip.
Preperation
Emitter
Take the clothes rail mounting disc and place the lower end against the base of one of the diaphram washers and mark around it with a pen (preferably gel ink). With the Surgical scalpal, cut through the diaghram washer so the center is removed. Take the outer ring of the washer and slide it up onto the lower end of the mounting disc. Use a thin layer of super glue to secure the washer flush with the underside of the disc. The emmiter is now completed and can be put to one side.
Main Core
The lengths I have quoted above are approximates which can be varied for a more personalized grip length, but I will use them in the tutorial for ease of description.
Having determined the length of your saber grip, you will need to cut each individual pipe to length, so simply repeat the following instructions for each pipe First, draw a straight line (appx 3 inches long) on the tracing paper and cut it out, leaving an inch of paper on either side of the drawn line. This is your cutting template. Wrap it around the pipe so the line forms a ring, and then use 'magic tape' to secure them in the desired position (for cutting the tube ends) This serves the dual purpose of a) giving you a clear line to cut along (which will not get rubbed away, like ink on the pipe) and it will also offer protection to the pipe should the saw slip.
Use the hacksaw to cut through the pipe, so you are left with a section the length you desire.
Once you have cut the three main pipes (1/4 inch stainless steel pipe, 3/4 inch PVC pipe and 1 inch stainless steel pipe) to length, take the 1/4 inch pipe, and wrap 4-5 layers of duct tape (Wrapping sideways around the pipe rather than lengthways) around the pipe. Repeat this process untill the entire length has been covered with duct tape, and it fits snugly into the 3/4 inch PVC pipe. Coat a layer of superglue onto the duct tape, and insert it into the 3/4 inch pipe so the ends are flush with each other.
Now take the 3/4 inch pipe and wrap 4-5 layers of duct tape (Wrapping sideways around the pipe rather than lengthways) around the pipe. Repeat this process untill the entire length has been covered with duct tape, and it fits snugly into the 1 inch stainless steel pipe. Coat a layer of superglue onto the duct tape, and insert it into the 1 inch pipe so on one end all the pipes are flush with each other, but on the other end, the 1/4 and 3/4 inch pipes are extended from the 1 inch pipe by approximately half an inch. This is now the Main Core of the saber (although it is not yet completed)
Take the 1 inch pipe and wrap 4-5 layers of duct tape (Wrapping sideways around the pipe rather than lengthways) around the pipe. Repeat this process untill the entire length has been covered with duct tape, and it can be fitted snugly into the 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe. Once the Main Core can be snuggly inserted into the 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe, remove the Main Core, and strip away one or two layers of duct tape from the 1 inch pipe. Now take the double sided tape, and apply a single layer of double sided tape over the duct tape on the 1 inch tube.
With the roll of twine, begin wrapping a single layer of twine along the entire length of the 1 inch pipe. Ensure that with each new rotation/wrap of the pipe, the twine is pressing tightly against the preceding rotation/wrap. The double sided tape will ensure that the twine remains against the tube. Once you have completely covered the double sided tape with the twine, test fit the Main Core into the 1 3/4 PVC pipe, and it should be a perfect fit. Now you have to take the tubes of SuperGlue and completely coat the outer layer of twine. It will take almost all the tubes to cover the twine as it is absorbed into the twine. Once the glue has dried, the Main Core should fit perfectly into the 1 3/4 PVC pipe. If it is too tight, then take a piece of coarse sandpaper and with a rotating motion of the Main Core, grind down the Superglue untill a perfect fit can be achieved. Gently run the hand file around the emitter end to even up any sharp edges or uneven ends, leaving as flat a surface as possible. Once this is done, the Main Core is completed and can be put to one side.
Outer Shells
Wrap a piece of tracing paper around the 1 3/4 PVC pipe and mark the paper with lines that, when flattened, will still give the size of the tube's diameter. Remove the tracing paper from the tube (having marked the proper diameter) and fold the paper in half. With the pen, now draw the shape of the outer shells on the tracing paper. Cut the shapes out with scissors and unfold the tracing paper.
Take the 1 3/4 inch pipe and use magic tape to secure the paper template against the surface. Using a hacksaw (or a rotary tool if you prefer) cut out the individual shells leaving additionial PVC near the template, as this prevents accidental overcutting of the PVC. Once you have cut out each individual shell, use the surgical scalpal, handfiles and sandpaper to carefully carve the shells to the desired shape. This is extremely time consuming, but do not be tempted to hurry or force a cut, as it can ruin the finish. It must be stressed that PVC is a much more delicate medium than metal, and the slightest nick or slip of a saw can irreperably ruin the finish.
Once the outer shells are completed, test fit them onto the Main Core to determine the placement of the covertec clip and activation lens. Use a pen to indicate the positions of the activation lens, covertec clip and also the positions of the shells on the Main Core. Put a strip of magic tape over the ink on the shells so it does not smear (do not do this for the ink on the Main Core). With the scapal, cut through the shell for the activation lens to be inserted.
Take the covertec knob, and temporarily hold it in place on the outer shell.
Touch a pen through the knob onto the shell to leave a clear mark, and remove the knob.
Fit a cone-shaped engraving tip to a drill or rotary tool.
Hold the tip of the cone directly in the middle of the guide mark on the shell, and apply pressure so it will not slip.
Trigger a quick burst from the drill/rotary tool, and apply slightly more pressure against the shell.
This will create a minor indentation that will be a guide for the actual drill bit, and prevent it 'skipping' across the surface.
Replace the engraving cone with a drill bit (appx 1mm smaller than the screw supplied with the covertec knob), hold the point of the bit in the guide indentation and apply a firm pressure against the shell.
Trigger a constant burst from the drill/rotary tool, and gradually apply more pressure against the shell.
Vary between applying pressure and releasing slightly to prevent the drill bit sticking in the shell, but only shift the pressure, do not let the drill bit come away from the shell.
Construction
Most of the hard work has now been done, and it is possible to begin constructing the saber. This is best done from the emmiter down.
Begin by taking the untouched diaphram washer, and placing it on the emmiter end of the Main Core, and use an application of super to fix it in place. Fill the depression in the washer with super glue and place the lower end of the emmiter assembly into the depression. Once the glue has dried, it will be a solid piece.
Stick the chrome tape on the Main Core so when the shells are put in place, it will be beneath the cut made for the activation lens.
Individually slide each shell onto the the main core, but leave it 5 mm from the desired final position. Apply a layer of super glue to the Main Core, and then quickly slide the shell into it's final position.
When the pommel shell is slid into place, remember that it will extend further than the exposed sections of the Main Core (which have not been wrapped in twine)
Once that is done, apply another layer of super glue to any visible twine. Do not worry if it does not leave a uniform finish on each strand of twine, infact, you want the finish to be irregular.
Next glue the activation lens in place. Obnce the glue has dried, use a piece of magic tape to completely mask the activation lens for when the saber is sprayed.
The saber is now 95% complete.
Taking the pink spray can, coat the egg-shaped lid. This must be done seperately from the main saber so the paint is not affected by the spraying of the main saber.
Leave this to one side to dry.
Take the purple spray can and entirely coat the saber. You may wish to apply several coats of paint.
Once the purple layer has dried, take the pink spray can and apply a very fine layer of paint over the purple. The object of this is not to totally obscure the purple paint, but to create a fine sheen over the top. The candy paint is slightly translucent, so the purple paint should show through.
Once the paint has dried, remove the masking tape from the activation lens.
The following is a rather fiddly endeavour, and must be done quickly, so be sure to know what you need to do.
Apply a fine layer of superglue to the exposed end of the main core and inside of the egg-shaped lid. Use the fingers of one hand to pry apart the lower shrouds, and with your other hand, quickly put the egg-shaped lid in place over the exposed end of the Main Core. When in place, the join of the Main Core and the lid should be concealed by the Shell.
Next, use the rotary tool in the manner previously mentioned to drill the hole for the covertec knob into the walls of the Main Core. The hole already drilled in the Shell will act as a guide.
The result, should look something like this:
Here's a picture of An'ya Kuro's saber for comparison:
This saber will not accomadate a blade of any kind, but is ideal to be worn on a belt.
If anyone has any questions not covered, please feel free to ask.
Best of luck, and may the Force be with you