Snap tape! Snap tape! I'm on version 4 of an outer tunic (2nd of TJA quality), and I'm using snap tape for everything. I love the stuff! ;D (I use velcro on the obi, though.)
If you're not familiar with snap tape, it's a cotton twill tape with small snaps spaced about 1 1/2 inches apart. You can buy it in packages of 18 inches or by the yard at a fabric store. It comes in white, black, or cream. Being an artistic perfectionist tightly-wound type
, I tint mine to approximate the color of the tunic, but the tape doesn't show so you don't have to do that.
Here's where I use it:
1.)
At the front waist where the tunic wrap overlaps. I think it's about a 5 or 6 snap piece -- the top edge of the twill tape is sewn at the waist seam so the
tape falls BELOW the waist. (Important -- see #4) I used 2 large pop snaps on my last tunic, but the snap tape closure lays flatter/neater (at least on me
).
2.)
At the back waist to attach the tabards (I have Obi-Wan style). It's a 5-snap piece for my 6 inch tabards -- be sure to have snaps close to the outer edges of the tabards so the edges don't pull upward and get untidy. Sew the
bottom of the twill tape at the waist so the
tape is ABOVE the waist. Use the male snaps on the tabards and the female on the tunic.
3.) I use a 4 snap piece
at each shoulder to secure the tabards. Sew outward from the neck band
toward the arm (the tape won't go all of the way out) and the top edge of the tape at the tunic shoulder seam so the tape falls
behind the shoulder seam. (Shoulder seams are usually a bit forward.) Again, use male on the tabard side and female on the tunic side.
There are no shoulder seams in my tabards but I do sew an extra layer of fabric (shoulder pad shaped but just the self-fabric) inside so I have an extra layer to reinforce the snap tape stitching and it won't show.
From looking at Mace's costume in AOTC (when he's fighting Jango), his tabards rumple and pull up in such a way that it seems they're attached at the top of the shoulder near the neck facing but not all of the way out to the shoulder tuck and sleeve -- maybe 2/3 of the way.
4.)
At the front waist to attach the tabards. Again, use a 5-snap piece for each side, and sew the
bottom of the twill tape at the waist so the
tape is ABOVE the waist. Now you know why the tunic closure is BELOW the waist seam... so the different tapes won't "run into each other"!
Remember to use the male snaps on the tabards and the female on the tunic. I also use a small hook and eye at the tabards waist seam just to keep them tidy. It's all covered by the obi anyway.
5.) Optional: I also use a 3 snap piece
at the chest where the tunic crosses over. The male snap piece will be in the center/parallel of the binding on the outer/left crossover, and the female piece will go across the bottom/right crossover. You might have to play with this for correct placement. I'd sew on the outer piece first and then adjust the under piece so that it lays flat and doesn't gap (too loose) or pull (too tight).
This chest piece may not be necessary for some, but for a woman with a bust, it prevents the end-of-day "gaposis" which makes for an untidy costume.
I'm sure your eyes are glazing over about now from my over-analysis, but I've tried pins, velcro, stitches, ties, etc. The snap tape is a pain to do at first but will make it much easier to get in and out of your costume, and if you are careful with placement, will keep you looking "tidier" at the end of a long day at a con. The snaps are reasonably flat (unlike "lumpy" ties) and will keep you neat (no "crawling") and comfortable.
One final note: I just whip-stitch the tape pieces on all 4 sides (be sure to fold under the raw, cut ends) instead of trying to sew with the machine. This can be done in front of the TV at night if you've got a good light.
In fact, that's my evening project for D*C -- hope that helps.
Kryy