Post by tanzanlinnear on Nov 13, 2005 9:36:24 GMT -5
Comments made the other day made me recal just how easy it is to create a lightsaber similar to Master Windu's, so I thought I'd share the method I used with everyone 
(feel free to move this to another tutorial location if needbe)
I didn't take photos during the construction of the saber, so I will simply describe the process, and post pictures of the finished article
What you will need:
Tools
A hack saw
A rotary tool or electric drill
Nail Clippers
Strong super glue
Tracing paper
Duct Tape
'Magic Tape'
Hand Files
Sharp Scissors or scalpal
Double Edged Razor Blade
Metalic Brass Paint
Parts
1 Mountain bike saddle post one inch in diameter (walls of tube will be appx 4mm thick)
1 Brass hose coupling
1 set of BMX/Mountain bike handlebar grips (personal preference as to actuall texture/pattern)
1 set of replacement windshield wiper blades
Brass pictureframe hanging wire (from any good arts & crafts store)
1 Covertec knob
1 Empty gas cylinder from a puncture repair kit (or any other suitable shaped object for the end-piece)
points of note
After realizing that some people have never used tools to create their own saber, I am writing this guide in as much detail as possible, so they will be able to follow the guide word for word, learning to use the tools as they go. For those who are familiar with the use of tools, simply use your judgement in following the essential instructions.
All of my lightsabers (with the exception of my latest curved hilt) have been made from saddle posts for two reasons. 1. They are exceptionally good quality metal, so they provide a good weight to the finished saber, as well as being stronger than simple chrome pipe and 2. They are available in a wide variety of sizes, and it is possible to specify both the exterior and interior diameter, which is usefull if something has to be fit snug inside or outside the main body. They are more expensive than chrome pipe, but I feel that their qualities make them worth the extra cost. I'd advise anyone planning a saber that involves exact measurements to use them.
The tutorial I am writing will not provide an exact replica of Master Windu's saber, but it will be a close approximation, as with the ethos of a Padawan's saber being built to resemble their Master's saber. It will be recognizeable, but not identical.
When making any cuts in metal, take your time, and be mindfull of your tools. Hurrying or forcing a cut will likely only lead to the tool 'skipping', and anything that makes a small mark in metal, can do serious damage to your hand. Always cut away from yourself, and if possible, keep fingers at least 2 inches from any cutting edge, in case it should slip.
Preperation
Main Body
Having determined the length of your saber grip, you will need to cut the saddle post to length. Some posts come only as posts, and thus it will only be necessary to cut one end, some come with a saddle attatchment clamp hot-glued into the end, so it will be necessary to cut that end off as well. First, draw two straight lines (appx 3 inches long) on the tracing paper and cut them both out, leaving an inch of paper on either side of the drawn line. These are your cutting templates. Wrap them around the saddle post so the line forms a ring, and then use 'magic tape' to secure them in the desired position (for cutting the tube ends) This serves the dual purpose of a) giving you a clear line to cut along (which will not get rubbed away, like ink on the tube) and it will also offer protection to the tube should the saw slip.
Use the hacksaw to cut through the tube, so you are left with a section the length you desire.
If the saddle post did not have an attatched clamp and you have only had to make one cut, the end that has been cut will be the emitter end, and the un-cut end will be the pommel end.
If you have had to remove a clamp by making two cuts, use a hand file to put a gentle curve on one end (which will now be the pommell end)
In either case, gently run the hand file around the emitter end to remove any sharp edges, but not enough to put a curve on the tube as with the pommell end.
Depending on the finish of your saddle post, you may wish to use sandpaper to smooth any texture (and remove any markings) but this is purely a matter of personal taste.
You have now completed the main body of the saber, which can be put to one side.
Upper Grip
Take one of the handlebar grips, and using either scissors or a scalpal, cut a line parallel to the sides, along one side of the grip to the sealed end. Now use the scissors or scalpal, cut across the grip at the sealed end, removing only enough material to remove the sealed end.
This will leave you with a rubber tube, open on both ends, and cut straight open on one side (If looked at end on, it should look like a C shape)
Wrap a piece of tracing paper around the main body of the saber, and grip the tube with your non-dominant hand over the tracing paper to hold it in place. Using a pen (prefereably liquid ink or gel) draw lines appx 5mm above and below the top and bottom of where your fingers touch the pipe . This gives your grip size. Mark the paper with lines that, when flattened, will still give the size of the tube's diameter. Remove the tracing paper from the tube (having marked the proper diameter) and fold the paper in half. With the pen, now draw the shape of the upper grip on the tracing paper. If holding the template upside down, with the folded edge to your right, you want to be drawing a line that looks like a J over the two open sides of the paper.
Cut the shape out with scissors, (The template should appear roughly L shaped) and unfold the tracing paper.
Take the rubber tube (best against a flat surface) hold it flat, and then place the paper template against the inside surface. With the pen, draw around the edge of the template, being sure to leave a clear mark on the rubber. Remove the paper template, and using either scissors or a scalpal, cut away the excess rubber.
You will now have your completed upper grip. Be sure to retain the excess, as it will be used later.
Lower Grip
The lower grip is composed of a series of rubber fins.
To prepare the windshield wiper blades, seperate the rubber section from the plastic mountings.
The rubber blades should have a profile like a T, but with a double top bar.
Take a double-edged razor blade by the blunt sides, and use it to seperate the 'second top bar' from the wiperblade, and it should then have a proper T profile.
If there is any remainder of the removed rubber on the top of the T, apply a little pressure to the edges of the razor blade so the blade curves away from you slightly. You do not want to bend the blade, just give it a very gentle curve, so you will be presenting a much smaller cutting edge to the rubber.
With the blade curving away from you, very carefully go along the top of the T removing any excess rubber, until it is completely flat across the top of the T.
The wiper blade has now been prepared for measurement and cutting.
Using the tracing paper template which you used for the upper grip, mark the wiper blade, in equal lengths, and then cut. You may need to do this with the entire length of both blades.
Use the double edged razor or a scalpal to cut straight through the rubber blades, so the cut ends are right angles (or as close as possible to) until you have twelve individual sections of identical length.
These are now your grip fins.
Take an individual grip fin and the nail clippers. Place the clipper so the outer edge of the blade is against the base of the fin, and gently tilt the clipper untill the other outer edge of the blade is in line with the top of the fin. Firmly operate the clipper, and this will cut a gentle curve onto the end of the fin.
Repeat the procedure on both ends of every grip fin.
Activator
Take the excess rubber from creating the upper grip, and cut a piece appx 1 inch long. Take the Metallic brass paint, and paint all the sides, except for the curved base.
This is now your activator.
Construction
Most of the hard work has now been done, and it is possible to begin constructing the saber. This is best done from the pommell up.
Begin by taking the empty gas cylinder, and inserting it into the end of the grip (It will be an extremely tight fit) untill it has the appearance of a half-sphere set into the tube. You may of course, choose to use a different shaped item for the end piece, but that will result in a different finish.
Take the covertec knob, and temporarily place it 1 or 2 mm away from the end of the main tube.
Touch a pen through the knob onto the tube to leave a clear mark, and remove the knob.
Fit a cone-shaped engraving tip to a drill or rotary tool.
Hold the tip of the cone directly in the middle of the guide mark on the tube, and apply pressure so it will not slip.
Trigger a quick burst from the drill/rotary tool, and apply slightly more pressure against the tube.
This will create a minor indentation that will be a guide for the actual drill bit, and prevent it 'skipping' across the surface.
Replace the engraving cone with a drill bit (appx 1mm smaller than the screw supplied with the covertec knob), hold the point of the bit in the guide indentation and apply a firm pressure against the tube.
Trigger a constant burst from the drill/rotary tool, and gradually apply more pressure against the tube.
Vary between applying pressure and releasing slightly to prevent the drill bit blunting and sticking in the tube, but only shift the pressure, do not let the drill bit come away from the tube.
Once you have drilled the hole, use the supplied screw to secure the covertec knob in place. This will be difficult at first, because the screw will be cutting itself a thread into the metal, but once it is in, it will be easy to unscrew if needbe.
Take a grip fin, and apply a fine layer of superglue to the top of the T section.
Place it against the tube, appx 2 mm from the covertec knob, so it is directly in line with the screw. This will now be referred to as the 12 O Clock position.
Always allow a few moments for the glue to dry on each fin before proceeding.
Holding the tube end on, apply glue to another grip fin and apply it to the 6 O Clock position.
Apply glue to another grip fin and apply it to the 3 O Clock position.
Apply glue to another grip fin and apply it to the 9 O Clock position.
Now you have the four fins in place, you can begin to 'fill the gaps' with the other fins. These should also be glued into place at 1 O Clock, 2 O Clock, 4 O Clock, 5 O Clock, 7 O Clock, 8 O Clock, 10 O Clock and 11 O clock.
If properly applied, there should be space available to rest another fin in between each fin that has been glued in place. This is only done for spacing, and there should only be 12 grip fins, not 24.
Cut a strip of duct tape 4 inchs long.
Now cut along the strip so it is only 1 inch wide.
Fix the 1 inch strip of duct tape around the body of the saber, so the edge of the tape is touching the upper ends of the grip fins.
Take the brass wire, and tuck one end under the end of the duct tape (where it has wrapped around and over itself).
Apply a small amount of glue to this join and allow the glue to dry before proceeding.
The following is a delicate balancing act of tension. Pull too tight, and the wire will pull free of the duct tape, leave it too loose, and the wire will spiral away from the body of the saber rather than being in contact with it.
Maintaining a suitable tension on the wire, gently rotate the body of the saber, hand laying the wire against the duct-tape, so it is first in contact with the grip fins, and on each subsequent rotation, in contact with the wire. Do not allow any gaps to appear.
When you have covered the duct tape, keep rotating the saber and lay a second layer of wire over the first, but working back toward the grip fins.
When you have reached the grip fins, use the nail clippers to cut the wire, ensuring that you keep a thumb on the wire in contact with the saber, or it will come away and uncoil.
Keeping your thumb pressed on the end, lightly drizzle more glue over the wire, so it can 'soak' through the wire and form a strong bond.
Once this has dried, use more glue to secure the end of the wire, holding it firmly in place with a thumbnail so that it can glue in place, without also gluing to your thumb.
Take the rubber upper grip section and apply a fine layer of glue to the inside surface.
Place the grip section against the saber, so the opening in the C shape is in line with the covertec knob, and the base of the grip section is agaisnt the wrapped wire, so that the J shape has the curve toward the emitter.
Hold the saber by the grip fins, and extend your thumb to touch the body of the saber in line with the opening at the top of the upper grip (so you are touching bare metal) and make a note of where your thumb touches.
Take the painted activator and apply a fine layer of glue to the inside surface.
Apply the activator to the tube at the point where your thumb made contact.
Still holding the saber upright, apply a generous layer of glue to the surface of the cut in the emitter end.
Take the brass hose coupling, and lower it into place, so the thin ridged section is inserted into the saber, leaving the larger upper section to rest on the surface of the cut in the saber.
Once the glue has dried, it is possible to remove any excess with the cutting edge of a scalpal, taking care not to scratch the surface of the saber.
The result, should look something like this:
Here's a picture of Master Windu's saber for comparison:
This saber will not accomadate a blade of any kind, but is ideal to be worn on a belt. If any of the grip fins come away during handling, they can easily be re-attatched with more glue.
If anyone has any questions not covered, please feel free to ask.
Best of luck, and may the Force be with you
(feel free to move this to another tutorial location if needbe)
I didn't take photos during the construction of the saber, so I will simply describe the process, and post pictures of the finished article
What you will need:
Tools
A hack saw
A rotary tool or electric drill
Nail Clippers
Strong super glue
Tracing paper
Duct Tape
'Magic Tape'
Hand Files
Sharp Scissors or scalpal
Double Edged Razor Blade
Metalic Brass Paint
Parts
1 Mountain bike saddle post one inch in diameter (walls of tube will be appx 4mm thick)
1 Brass hose coupling
1 set of BMX/Mountain bike handlebar grips (personal preference as to actuall texture/pattern)
1 set of replacement windshield wiper blades
Brass pictureframe hanging wire (from any good arts & crafts store)
1 Covertec knob
1 Empty gas cylinder from a puncture repair kit (or any other suitable shaped object for the end-piece)
points of note
After realizing that some people have never used tools to create their own saber, I am writing this guide in as much detail as possible, so they will be able to follow the guide word for word, learning to use the tools as they go. For those who are familiar with the use of tools, simply use your judgement in following the essential instructions.
All of my lightsabers (with the exception of my latest curved hilt) have been made from saddle posts for two reasons. 1. They are exceptionally good quality metal, so they provide a good weight to the finished saber, as well as being stronger than simple chrome pipe and 2. They are available in a wide variety of sizes, and it is possible to specify both the exterior and interior diameter, which is usefull if something has to be fit snug inside or outside the main body. They are more expensive than chrome pipe, but I feel that their qualities make them worth the extra cost. I'd advise anyone planning a saber that involves exact measurements to use them.
The tutorial I am writing will not provide an exact replica of Master Windu's saber, but it will be a close approximation, as with the ethos of a Padawan's saber being built to resemble their Master's saber. It will be recognizeable, but not identical.
When making any cuts in metal, take your time, and be mindfull of your tools. Hurrying or forcing a cut will likely only lead to the tool 'skipping', and anything that makes a small mark in metal, can do serious damage to your hand. Always cut away from yourself, and if possible, keep fingers at least 2 inches from any cutting edge, in case it should slip.
Preperation
Main Body
Having determined the length of your saber grip, you will need to cut the saddle post to length. Some posts come only as posts, and thus it will only be necessary to cut one end, some come with a saddle attatchment clamp hot-glued into the end, so it will be necessary to cut that end off as well. First, draw two straight lines (appx 3 inches long) on the tracing paper and cut them both out, leaving an inch of paper on either side of the drawn line. These are your cutting templates. Wrap them around the saddle post so the line forms a ring, and then use 'magic tape' to secure them in the desired position (for cutting the tube ends) This serves the dual purpose of a) giving you a clear line to cut along (which will not get rubbed away, like ink on the tube) and it will also offer protection to the tube should the saw slip.
Use the hacksaw to cut through the tube, so you are left with a section the length you desire.
If the saddle post did not have an attatched clamp and you have only had to make one cut, the end that has been cut will be the emitter end, and the un-cut end will be the pommel end.
If you have had to remove a clamp by making two cuts, use a hand file to put a gentle curve on one end (which will now be the pommell end)
In either case, gently run the hand file around the emitter end to remove any sharp edges, but not enough to put a curve on the tube as with the pommell end.
Depending on the finish of your saddle post, you may wish to use sandpaper to smooth any texture (and remove any markings) but this is purely a matter of personal taste.
You have now completed the main body of the saber, which can be put to one side.
Upper Grip
Take one of the handlebar grips, and using either scissors or a scalpal, cut a line parallel to the sides, along one side of the grip to the sealed end. Now use the scissors or scalpal, cut across the grip at the sealed end, removing only enough material to remove the sealed end.
This will leave you with a rubber tube, open on both ends, and cut straight open on one side (If looked at end on, it should look like a C shape)
Wrap a piece of tracing paper around the main body of the saber, and grip the tube with your non-dominant hand over the tracing paper to hold it in place. Using a pen (prefereably liquid ink or gel) draw lines appx 5mm above and below the top and bottom of where your fingers touch the pipe . This gives your grip size. Mark the paper with lines that, when flattened, will still give the size of the tube's diameter. Remove the tracing paper from the tube (having marked the proper diameter) and fold the paper in half. With the pen, now draw the shape of the upper grip on the tracing paper. If holding the template upside down, with the folded edge to your right, you want to be drawing a line that looks like a J over the two open sides of the paper.
Cut the shape out with scissors, (The template should appear roughly L shaped) and unfold the tracing paper.
Take the rubber tube (best against a flat surface) hold it flat, and then place the paper template against the inside surface. With the pen, draw around the edge of the template, being sure to leave a clear mark on the rubber. Remove the paper template, and using either scissors or a scalpal, cut away the excess rubber.
You will now have your completed upper grip. Be sure to retain the excess, as it will be used later.
Lower Grip
The lower grip is composed of a series of rubber fins.
To prepare the windshield wiper blades, seperate the rubber section from the plastic mountings.
The rubber blades should have a profile like a T, but with a double top bar.
Take a double-edged razor blade by the blunt sides, and use it to seperate the 'second top bar' from the wiperblade, and it should then have a proper T profile.
If there is any remainder of the removed rubber on the top of the T, apply a little pressure to the edges of the razor blade so the blade curves away from you slightly. You do not want to bend the blade, just give it a very gentle curve, so you will be presenting a much smaller cutting edge to the rubber.
With the blade curving away from you, very carefully go along the top of the T removing any excess rubber, until it is completely flat across the top of the T.
The wiper blade has now been prepared for measurement and cutting.
Using the tracing paper template which you used for the upper grip, mark the wiper blade, in equal lengths, and then cut. You may need to do this with the entire length of both blades.
Use the double edged razor or a scalpal to cut straight through the rubber blades, so the cut ends are right angles (or as close as possible to) until you have twelve individual sections of identical length.
These are now your grip fins.
Take an individual grip fin and the nail clippers. Place the clipper so the outer edge of the blade is against the base of the fin, and gently tilt the clipper untill the other outer edge of the blade is in line with the top of the fin. Firmly operate the clipper, and this will cut a gentle curve onto the end of the fin.
Repeat the procedure on both ends of every grip fin.
Activator
Take the excess rubber from creating the upper grip, and cut a piece appx 1 inch long. Take the Metallic brass paint, and paint all the sides, except for the curved base.
This is now your activator.
Construction
Most of the hard work has now been done, and it is possible to begin constructing the saber. This is best done from the pommell up.
Begin by taking the empty gas cylinder, and inserting it into the end of the grip (It will be an extremely tight fit) untill it has the appearance of a half-sphere set into the tube. You may of course, choose to use a different shaped item for the end piece, but that will result in a different finish.
Take the covertec knob, and temporarily place it 1 or 2 mm away from the end of the main tube.
Touch a pen through the knob onto the tube to leave a clear mark, and remove the knob.
Fit a cone-shaped engraving tip to a drill or rotary tool.
Hold the tip of the cone directly in the middle of the guide mark on the tube, and apply pressure so it will not slip.
Trigger a quick burst from the drill/rotary tool, and apply slightly more pressure against the tube.
This will create a minor indentation that will be a guide for the actual drill bit, and prevent it 'skipping' across the surface.
Replace the engraving cone with a drill bit (appx 1mm smaller than the screw supplied with the covertec knob), hold the point of the bit in the guide indentation and apply a firm pressure against the tube.
Trigger a constant burst from the drill/rotary tool, and gradually apply more pressure against the tube.
Vary between applying pressure and releasing slightly to prevent the drill bit blunting and sticking in the tube, but only shift the pressure, do not let the drill bit come away from the tube.
Once you have drilled the hole, use the supplied screw to secure the covertec knob in place. This will be difficult at first, because the screw will be cutting itself a thread into the metal, but once it is in, it will be easy to unscrew if needbe.
Take a grip fin, and apply a fine layer of superglue to the top of the T section.
Place it against the tube, appx 2 mm from the covertec knob, so it is directly in line with the screw. This will now be referred to as the 12 O Clock position.
Always allow a few moments for the glue to dry on each fin before proceeding.
Holding the tube end on, apply glue to another grip fin and apply it to the 6 O Clock position.
Apply glue to another grip fin and apply it to the 3 O Clock position.
Apply glue to another grip fin and apply it to the 9 O Clock position.
Now you have the four fins in place, you can begin to 'fill the gaps' with the other fins. These should also be glued into place at 1 O Clock, 2 O Clock, 4 O Clock, 5 O Clock, 7 O Clock, 8 O Clock, 10 O Clock and 11 O clock.
If properly applied, there should be space available to rest another fin in between each fin that has been glued in place. This is only done for spacing, and there should only be 12 grip fins, not 24.
Cut a strip of duct tape 4 inchs long.
Now cut along the strip so it is only 1 inch wide.
Fix the 1 inch strip of duct tape around the body of the saber, so the edge of the tape is touching the upper ends of the grip fins.
Take the brass wire, and tuck one end under the end of the duct tape (where it has wrapped around and over itself).
Apply a small amount of glue to this join and allow the glue to dry before proceeding.
The following is a delicate balancing act of tension. Pull too tight, and the wire will pull free of the duct tape, leave it too loose, and the wire will spiral away from the body of the saber rather than being in contact with it.
Maintaining a suitable tension on the wire, gently rotate the body of the saber, hand laying the wire against the duct-tape, so it is first in contact with the grip fins, and on each subsequent rotation, in contact with the wire. Do not allow any gaps to appear.
When you have covered the duct tape, keep rotating the saber and lay a second layer of wire over the first, but working back toward the grip fins.
When you have reached the grip fins, use the nail clippers to cut the wire, ensuring that you keep a thumb on the wire in contact with the saber, or it will come away and uncoil.
Keeping your thumb pressed on the end, lightly drizzle more glue over the wire, so it can 'soak' through the wire and form a strong bond.
Once this has dried, use more glue to secure the end of the wire, holding it firmly in place with a thumbnail so that it can glue in place, without also gluing to your thumb.
Take the rubber upper grip section and apply a fine layer of glue to the inside surface.
Place the grip section against the saber, so the opening in the C shape is in line with the covertec knob, and the base of the grip section is agaisnt the wrapped wire, so that the J shape has the curve toward the emitter.
Hold the saber by the grip fins, and extend your thumb to touch the body of the saber in line with the opening at the top of the upper grip (so you are touching bare metal) and make a note of where your thumb touches.
Take the painted activator and apply a fine layer of glue to the inside surface.
Apply the activator to the tube at the point where your thumb made contact.
Still holding the saber upright, apply a generous layer of glue to the surface of the cut in the emitter end.
Take the brass hose coupling, and lower it into place, so the thin ridged section is inserted into the saber, leaving the larger upper section to rest on the surface of the cut in the saber.
Once the glue has dried, it is possible to remove any excess with the cutting edge of a scalpal, taking care not to scratch the surface of the saber.
The result, should look something like this:
Here's a picture of Master Windu's saber for comparison:
This saber will not accomadate a blade of any kind, but is ideal to be worn on a belt. If any of the grip fins come away during handling, they can easily be re-attatched with more glue.
If anyone has any questions not covered, please feel free to ask.
Best of luck, and may the Force be with you