Post by Starkindler (The Naked Jedi) on Oct 24, 2005 11:23:51 GMT -5
IT IS MY HOPE THAT THIS TUTORIAL WILL BOTH ASSIST OTHERS IN MAKING THEIR FIRST SABER AND SPUR THEM ON TO BETTER ONES THAN MINE.>
Download the whole tutorial in a WORD document with plenty of pics by using this link:link is active and working
www.be300.org/forum/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=18839
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Padawan (or Yoda Sized) Saber Tutorial:
(Note: these instructions can very easily be upsized to accommodate a full sized saber. All of the parts used in this “model” were/are available in sizes up to 1.5” diameter and the standard saber length)
Note on pictures:
Pictures of all parts as well as packaging are included in a downloadable zip file (link: www.be300.org/forum/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=18838 )
For space considerations, I have omitted most of them from this web version.Link works but file downloads with the name index.zip
Parts List:
(All of these parts can be purchased at Lowe’s. Total cost in NY prices was about $16. A full sized Saber would likely run about $10-$12 more. I actually bought some of the parts at Home Depot, but they did not have them all as Lowe’s did.)
Some of these parts are available in a few different styles or finishes.
Choose what appeals to you.
Note: part sizes do not always match up on purpose. the sizes I used do actually fit together rather well and may not do so if you just get everything the same size.
PART NAME// USED FOR ?// PART NUMBER
Hillman belt hook// Belt hook// 701326 9300-02
HALEX 1”conduit locknut-steel// Emitter// 96193
1” rubber toy truck tire// Emitter (external)// Just lying around
Hillman brass finish picture hangers// Emitter (internal) // 122312
Sink Repair pop-up plug basket strainer 11/32 OD x ¾ “ deep// Emitter (internal)//30499
Small beveled drawer pull//Emitter (internal)// Just lying around
GAMPAK ¾” Knock out seal// Endcap// KO-75 49151
NEER 1” insulated grounding bushing// Endcap// GBL-300 49383
OOK ring hangers// Endcap (D-ring hanger)// 50206
WATTS 1¼ ” x 1¼” Slip joint Polywashers// Saber body// 106233BA
WATTS 1¼ ” x 1¼” Slip joint washers// Saber body// 1067WRBA
WATTS 1 ¼ “ x 6” sink tube// Saber body// 719203H
Hillman 6-32 Knurled nuts// Saber body (activation button) //880459OOK
Soft touch 1” x 4” Grippers (by Waxman)// Saber body (grips) //
Shopping note:
Actually finding all the parts and deciding what to use for the emitter internals is by far the longest and most grueling part of this process. Just peek and hunt around until inspiration hits. I find the hardware isle and all the drawers of nuts, bolt, washers, etc. to be the best place to find inspiration.
Tools needed:
1) Standard slotted screwdriver
2) Needle nosed pliers
3) Scissors
4) Rotary tool or drill (only if you want to use a screw to attach the knurled knob)
5) Your choice of adhesive (only if you want all parts permanent. Saber can be
Constructed without it)
Assembly note:
I always test fit the parts first. This way I can see how they look together and how well they fit together. Since the whole saber can be assembled and broken down mostly by hand, this is not a big issue and will let you make creative changes ahead of time.
Many of the pics in this tutorial are from the test fit.
STEP 1
Remove any offending labels.
Acetone (nail polish remover) works great on stubborn stickers. I used it to get the large label off the main body.
Hint: masking tape is very useful in removing the glue residue that is sometimes left behind. Take a strip of the tape and put it over the residue, rub and then peel off. A minute or so of repeating this will clear it all off
STEP 2
Paint parts before assembly.
It is much easier this way. Allow time for them to dry before fitting to saber body. Since I test fit (mentioned above) I usually know by now what colors I want to see where.
STEP 3
Assemble the endcap.
This is done by removing the lug from the endcap and using the screw to attach the D-ring. You may need to use the tip of the pliers to slightly widen the hole in the D-ring tab in order for the screw to fit. After attaching the D-ring take the hole plug and use the pliers to bend the prongs inward about 50º or so. Then insert it into the endcap through the black washer. Flip the assembly over and use the pliers to unbend the prongs and ensure a tight, rattle free fit.
PIC HERE
Your endcap is now ready.
STEP 4
Attach endcap to body.
Since the endcap doesn’t usually cover all the threads on the body you need something to dress up the connecting area. Here I used 1 slip joint washer and 1 poly washer. Slide them onto the body just past the threads. Then screw the endcap onto the body and push the washers against it.
PIC HERE
You now have the back half completed.
STEP 5
Add grips to hilt.
Now, since you took my advice above and test fitted the parts, you make the final cuts to the grip strips to get them just right. (I cut mine lengthwise to make them thinner and shortened them a bit to taste). Decide on position (I made mine flush up against the endcap poly washer) and peel the backing off one at a time. Press on firmly and hold for several seconds. Continue to apply the grips until your desired pattern is finished. You will need to press the material down several times to allow the adhesive to stick firmly. I just kept doing it every few minutes while assembling the rest of the saber.
Note: it has been opined that the grip material is too thick. I find it just right since it is quite foamy and easily compressed. It makes for a very comfortable and secure feeling grip in my opinion
PIC HERE
At this point it is ok to test swing the saber (as long as you make the appropriate “swooshing” sounds)
STEP 6
Add knurled activation button (if you so choose to do so)
I have used a plain adhesive dot for this step (an old appliance “foot” that was unused. I like these knobs better. Here you can either use your glue/epoxy to affix the knob or drill a small hole in the hilt and use a screw to affix it (I used a Hard Drive mounting screw that I had on hand. It fit perfectly.
Put the screw though the hole from the inside (easy since the emitter end is still wide open) and affix the knob. You might want a bit of glue on the threads and or underside of the knob here to ensure it stays in place.
PIC HERE
Now it looks almost done!
STEP 7
Add exterior emitter details.
Now is the time to slide on the other poly washers, slip joint washers, etc. you have decided upon for the “business” end of the saber (here I used a tire from one of my son’s long deceased trucks). When this is done take one of the conduit locknuts and thread it onto the end of the hilt. It will go on easily at first then stop dead (since the threads are different sizes). However, all you really need is for it to go on far enough to be flush with the end of the hilt (which it should do easily). Now slide the washers and stuff up against the conduit locknut to hide the remaining threads.
PIC HERE
Almost there!!!
STEP 8
Assemble emitter internals
Now put the saber aside. I know it’s hard, but remember the Jedi Code:
“…There is no passion only peace.”
Take the sink basket and affix your emitter greeblies in place. On one saber, I used several Motherboard Spacers and washers along with a small Floppy drive mounting screw. For this one I used an old, small, pull knob I had lying around (from a jewelry box) and a conveniently sized nut that fit.
PIC HERE
STEP 8a
Emitter final touch.
(This step is required for the emitter to remain in place without glue or other method. This is also the only “tricky” part of the process so be patient.)
Take the three picture hangers and, one by one, place them into the emitter assembly with the open end over the edge of the sink basket and the closed end touching the internals you have installed.
Using the pliers crimp the ends of the hangers to the side of the basket. Make sure they lie flat against the side and follow the bend of the basket edge. Do this for each of the three hangers.
Pick up the hilt again (feels good doesn’t it ??).
If you got it right you will now be able to push the emitter assembly into the end of the hilt. The metal tabs from the hangers will fit VERY snugly into the opening (and may require some elbow grease to get the assembly seated firmly). I used a small hand weight to finish the job here. If it doesn’t fit either crimp the ends of the hangers a bit more or try new ones (there are 8 in the pack). It may take a few tries, but you’ll get it.
PIC HERE
STEP 9
Clean up your mess.
That’s right! Clean up after yourself ‘cause you’re done !!!!
OH YEAH! Almost forgot….You need to attach the saber to a belt so this is an inexpensive and functional solution. The saber won’t fall off the hook due to the retaining strip.
Download the whole tutorial in a WORD document with plenty of pics by using this link:link is active and working
www.be300.org/forum/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=18839
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Padawan (or Yoda Sized) Saber Tutorial:
(Note: these instructions can very easily be upsized to accommodate a full sized saber. All of the parts used in this “model” were/are available in sizes up to 1.5” diameter and the standard saber length)
Note on pictures:
Pictures of all parts as well as packaging are included in a downloadable zip file (link: www.be300.org/forum/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=18838 )
For space considerations, I have omitted most of them from this web version.Link works but file downloads with the name index.zip
Parts List:
(All of these parts can be purchased at Lowe’s. Total cost in NY prices was about $16. A full sized Saber would likely run about $10-$12 more. I actually bought some of the parts at Home Depot, but they did not have them all as Lowe’s did.)
Some of these parts are available in a few different styles or finishes.
Choose what appeals to you.
Note: part sizes do not always match up on purpose. the sizes I used do actually fit together rather well and may not do so if you just get everything the same size.
PART NAME// USED FOR ?// PART NUMBER
Hillman belt hook// Belt hook// 701326 9300-02
HALEX 1”conduit locknut-steel// Emitter// 96193
1” rubber toy truck tire// Emitter (external)// Just lying around
Hillman brass finish picture hangers// Emitter (internal) // 122312
Sink Repair pop-up plug basket strainer 11/32 OD x ¾ “ deep// Emitter (internal)//30499
Small beveled drawer pull//Emitter (internal)// Just lying around
GAMPAK ¾” Knock out seal// Endcap// KO-75 49151
NEER 1” insulated grounding bushing// Endcap// GBL-300 49383
OOK ring hangers// Endcap (D-ring hanger)// 50206
WATTS 1¼ ” x 1¼” Slip joint Polywashers// Saber body// 106233BA
WATTS 1¼ ” x 1¼” Slip joint washers// Saber body// 1067WRBA
WATTS 1 ¼ “ x 6” sink tube// Saber body// 719203H
Hillman 6-32 Knurled nuts// Saber body (activation button) //880459OOK
Soft touch 1” x 4” Grippers (by Waxman)// Saber body (grips) //
Shopping note:
Actually finding all the parts and deciding what to use for the emitter internals is by far the longest and most grueling part of this process. Just peek and hunt around until inspiration hits. I find the hardware isle and all the drawers of nuts, bolt, washers, etc. to be the best place to find inspiration.
Tools needed:
1) Standard slotted screwdriver
2) Needle nosed pliers
3) Scissors
4) Rotary tool or drill (only if you want to use a screw to attach the knurled knob)
5) Your choice of adhesive (only if you want all parts permanent. Saber can be
Constructed without it)
Assembly note:
I always test fit the parts first. This way I can see how they look together and how well they fit together. Since the whole saber can be assembled and broken down mostly by hand, this is not a big issue and will let you make creative changes ahead of time.
Many of the pics in this tutorial are from the test fit.
STEP 1
Remove any offending labels.
Acetone (nail polish remover) works great on stubborn stickers. I used it to get the large label off the main body.
Hint: masking tape is very useful in removing the glue residue that is sometimes left behind. Take a strip of the tape and put it over the residue, rub and then peel off. A minute or so of repeating this will clear it all off
STEP 2
Paint parts before assembly.
It is much easier this way. Allow time for them to dry before fitting to saber body. Since I test fit (mentioned above) I usually know by now what colors I want to see where.
STEP 3
Assemble the endcap.
This is done by removing the lug from the endcap and using the screw to attach the D-ring. You may need to use the tip of the pliers to slightly widen the hole in the D-ring tab in order for the screw to fit. After attaching the D-ring take the hole plug and use the pliers to bend the prongs inward about 50º or so. Then insert it into the endcap through the black washer. Flip the assembly over and use the pliers to unbend the prongs and ensure a tight, rattle free fit.
PIC HERE
Your endcap is now ready.
STEP 4
Attach endcap to body.
Since the endcap doesn’t usually cover all the threads on the body you need something to dress up the connecting area. Here I used 1 slip joint washer and 1 poly washer. Slide them onto the body just past the threads. Then screw the endcap onto the body and push the washers against it.
PIC HERE
You now have the back half completed.
STEP 5
Add grips to hilt.
Now, since you took my advice above and test fitted the parts, you make the final cuts to the grip strips to get them just right. (I cut mine lengthwise to make them thinner and shortened them a bit to taste). Decide on position (I made mine flush up against the endcap poly washer) and peel the backing off one at a time. Press on firmly and hold for several seconds. Continue to apply the grips until your desired pattern is finished. You will need to press the material down several times to allow the adhesive to stick firmly. I just kept doing it every few minutes while assembling the rest of the saber.
Note: it has been opined that the grip material is too thick. I find it just right since it is quite foamy and easily compressed. It makes for a very comfortable and secure feeling grip in my opinion
PIC HERE
At this point it is ok to test swing the saber (as long as you make the appropriate “swooshing” sounds)
STEP 6
Add knurled activation button (if you so choose to do so)
I have used a plain adhesive dot for this step (an old appliance “foot” that was unused. I like these knobs better. Here you can either use your glue/epoxy to affix the knob or drill a small hole in the hilt and use a screw to affix it (I used a Hard Drive mounting screw that I had on hand. It fit perfectly.
Put the screw though the hole from the inside (easy since the emitter end is still wide open) and affix the knob. You might want a bit of glue on the threads and or underside of the knob here to ensure it stays in place.
PIC HERE
Now it looks almost done!
STEP 7
Add exterior emitter details.
Now is the time to slide on the other poly washers, slip joint washers, etc. you have decided upon for the “business” end of the saber (here I used a tire from one of my son’s long deceased trucks). When this is done take one of the conduit locknuts and thread it onto the end of the hilt. It will go on easily at first then stop dead (since the threads are different sizes). However, all you really need is for it to go on far enough to be flush with the end of the hilt (which it should do easily). Now slide the washers and stuff up against the conduit locknut to hide the remaining threads.
PIC HERE
Almost there!!!
STEP 8
Assemble emitter internals
Now put the saber aside. I know it’s hard, but remember the Jedi Code:
“…There is no passion only peace.”
Take the sink basket and affix your emitter greeblies in place. On one saber, I used several Motherboard Spacers and washers along with a small Floppy drive mounting screw. For this one I used an old, small, pull knob I had lying around (from a jewelry box) and a conveniently sized nut that fit.
PIC HERE
STEP 8a
Emitter final touch.
(This step is required for the emitter to remain in place without glue or other method. This is also the only “tricky” part of the process so be patient.)
Take the three picture hangers and, one by one, place them into the emitter assembly with the open end over the edge of the sink basket and the closed end touching the internals you have installed.
Using the pliers crimp the ends of the hangers to the side of the basket. Make sure they lie flat against the side and follow the bend of the basket edge. Do this for each of the three hangers.
Pick up the hilt again (feels good doesn’t it ??).
If you got it right you will now be able to push the emitter assembly into the end of the hilt. The metal tabs from the hangers will fit VERY snugly into the opening (and may require some elbow grease to get the assembly seated firmly). I used a small hand weight to finish the job here. If it doesn’t fit either crimp the ends of the hangers a bit more or try new ones (there are 8 in the pack). It may take a few tries, but you’ll get it.
PIC HERE
STEP 9
Clean up your mess.
That’s right! Clean up after yourself ‘cause you’re done !!!!
OH YEAH! Almost forgot….You need to attach the saber to a belt so this is an inexpensive and functional solution. The saber won’t fall off the hook due to the retaining strip.
