|
Post by Theyrenotdolls (Den Dragonson) on Nov 14, 2007 22:28:31 GMT -5
i havent been around much lately...been working crazy hours. i've still been reading every other day or so, but rarely posting. anyway, I've begun working on a new tunic, making it myself this time, and now have a couple of questions. 1) should i use a lining? if so "self" lined or what fabric? 2) should i use interfacing? btw i'm using a butterick pattern: www.butterick.com/item/B6698.htm?search=B6698&page=1
|
|
JediKai
Message Board Member
TJA Savior
Posts: 5,560
|
Post by JediKai on Nov 15, 2007 0:16:39 GMT -5
i1) should i use a lining? if so "self" lined or what fabric? 2) should i use interfacing? I never line my tunics. Unless one is doing a screen-accurate Obi-Wan, Ep II & III, I don't see the need. I think it's just another layer to make you hotter (even if you used actual lining weight silk!) I attach a light weight iron-on interfacing to the band collars of the tunics. I also heavily interface the front and sides of the obi but men might not need to do so.
|
|
|
Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Nov 15, 2007 21:10:03 GMT -5
"-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i havent been around much lately...been working crazy hours. i've still been reading every other day or so, but rarely posting. anyway, I've begun working on a new tunic, making it myself this time, and now have a couple of questions. 1) should i use a lining? if so "self" lined or what fabric? 2) should i use interfacing? " Hi TND, If you're using a natural fiber for the OT, it's good to use another natural fiber to line it. Lightweight lining silk is best. Self lining means you'd use the same fabric it's made from to line? Correct? if so, I wouldn't do it, it'd be heavy. Unless it's a REAL lightweight fabric like bubble gauze. Leda had made an Over tunic and had placed to layers of cotton guaze back to back and then lined that with her lining, only so the tunic had more body, and not be so transparent. And it turned out ultra sharp, NICE. My first two over tunics weren't lined and I wish I had lined them. I found out that anything made from raw silk also NEEDS a lining. Because fabric 'sheds' little tiny balls of fiber on the over tunic and skin.. A lining made from CHina silk.(A smooth feeling, breathable fabric.)stopped that. A lining gives the sit right and it'll last longer b/c it won't shed as much fiber balls. A light weight interfacing inside the neck band, will make it stiff but not "stand up on it's own and walk away" stiff. Gives it body. Example, Kai's neck bands have that and they look great. Same weight or maybe a medium weight interfacing in between the two layers of fabric for tabbords. I only take it down to the waist front and back tabbords bits, leaving whats below the wasit interfacing free. My latest jedi tabbords had that and, I like how they stayed put and looked. A light weightlining at first incase you're heat sensitive. www.dharmatrading.com has fabric swatches you can gt of all their fabrics in a book for about $17. They have cards on them suggesting the use for the fabric.
|
|
JediKai
Message Board Member
TJA Savior
Posts: 5,560
|
Post by JediKai on Nov 16, 2007 2:50:50 GMT -5
The problem with the silk at dharma trading is that it's all white. In the quantities we need to Jedi garb and robes, it is not practical to dye it tan or brown. Unless you have access to commercial sized equipment, the dye job will come out uneven when you're dying 5-10 yards of fabric. It works fine for 1-2 yards, but nothing we make is that small. You MIGHT be able to use cold water dye and then dye each piece after it's cut out. I wouldn't want to try that, though.
|
|
|
Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Nov 16, 2007 17:30:57 GMT -5
I had successfully dyed large amounts of fabric an even colour. Silk even with big vats can and will dye a little unevenly, but that's just the nature of the fabric. Commercial grade silk does also dye uneven, only the makers will include a card saying"because silk is a natural fiber it will dye unevenly, thus adding to it's uniquce charactoristics. Each garment is uniquice."
I like that dharma's silk starts out white is great, I can do ANYTHING with it. Even better when I'm lining the natural coloured tunics. 10-15 yards of light weight silk can fit in the medum-large load in the washer with VERY hot water if you'er hot dying. Just have to time your agitaition cycle and turn it back several times to get your hour long time for dying.
The trick is to wash it a couple of times in the synthrapol stuff BEFORE dying, try the cold dying process, then wash in synthrapol a couple more times to set it. It takes practice and experimentaition, and is VERY satisfying when you get the result.
I've dyied Will's over tunic and he ,loves it. Now he wants possibly three more sets of varying shades. One being a marron red, another midnight blue. another black.(yeah sith threads.:-D.)
|
|
|
Post by Theyrenotdolls (Den Dragonson) on Nov 19, 2007 14:23:58 GMT -5
arghh this always happens....i was working on the undertunic first and my sewing machine is now on the fritz... i think it will need to be serviced. (
|
|
|
Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Nov 19, 2007 18:51:19 GMT -5
eeek!!!!
|
|
|
Post by Ky-Wan Zann on Nov 20, 2007 0:20:26 GMT -5
I like the pattern your using, might try that one and see if I can merge it with the sleeves for the simplicty one.
I line my tunics, I just like having them move more in the arms. Also I only line the outer one. I don't use interfacing in my sash. I find it looks more natural if it's not got any in it, seems to look more natural
|
|
|
Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Nov 20, 2007 13:00:18 GMT -5
My tunics Ky-Wan?
|
|
|
Post by Nova Darklighter on Nov 20, 2007 21:50:35 GMT -5
My machines like to do it at 3am, or there abouts, just to make me crazy! Before going to serviceman: Change needle Check the tension Rethread the whole machine Rewind and/or change the bobbin Clean under the stichplate and around the bobbin mech. Oil I usually find that any one or all of the above will fix the trouble without the serviceman, if all that fails, then by all means to sewing repair go! I also, always keep an extra bobbin case handy, sometimes changing for a new one does the trick, (the part that the bobbin goes inside of in many machines) they do wear out.
Sometimes I flatline the upper part of my tunics to stabilise the fabric, depends on what i'm using, likewise the sleeves. Some of my obi's are interlined, some are not. I've done a couple of tunics in the gauze, they definitly need lining.
|
|
|
Post by Granny-Wan on Nov 21, 2007 12:30:59 GMT -5
I think lining a tunic depends on the type of fabric you are using. If you can't see through it, it doesn't need lining. Now, lining might FEEL nice, but for me it's an extra layer to make me too hot... at CIV I was too hot with just a tunic and cloak, I wasn't even wearing an undertunic... The last time my sewing machine broke down, I ended up with a new one... cheaper than repairing the old.... I sort of miss the old one, though.... LOL
|
|
|
Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Nov 21, 2007 14:02:20 GMT -5
Nova, what is flatlining? I only know the medical term, not it's sewing counterpart.
|
|
JediKai
Message Board Member
TJA Savior
Posts: 5,560
|
Post by JediKai on Nov 22, 2007 11:16:32 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Jauhzmynn Enz on Nov 22, 2007 19:45:01 GMT -5
Oh ok, thanks kai. It makes sense now.
|
|
|
Post by Ky-Wan Zann on Nov 22, 2007 23:47:50 GMT -5
Enz, I meant the initial posters pattern. But yours always look great too. See why can't I get talaentedladies like you to sew my stuff for me.
|
|